Sophisticated. Barbara Casasola AW15

February 25, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Bringing on the Latin American heat and temper, Barbara Casasola shows a sophisticated side of her aesthetics. Black turtlenecks styled with flared skirts and black ballerinas (or yellow, if you want to cheer it up). The pleating was the spotlight this season—a touch Miyake-esque, but Casasola put her own signature spin on that look. And her showpiece efforts featuring multicolored silk fringe simultaneously contrasted with the pleats theme and carried the collection’s symbolic weight. The fringe appeared as if they were doing a little dance in celebration.

70’s Twist. Jonathan Saunders AW15

February 24, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Twisted 70’s. Jonathan Saunders falls into his routine, bringing nearly same prints each winter. Turtlenecks, A-skirts, slightly flared trousers – it all seems to be an old topic. Why do some designers always go into “now I am all about 60’s, but next season I am all about 70’s”? Yes, I understand those were important periods for fashion, but come on – they are constantly repeating. In reality, this collection by Saunders reminds me of Miu Miu Resort 2015 and many other 70’s inspired presentations. Even if we have all those fun and bold prints – Jonathan makes me yawn.

Plastic is Fantastic. Mary Katrantzou AW15

February 23, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

It’s the first good collection Mary Katrantzou presented for a loooong time. And the Greek designers proves, that plastic is fantastic, if you know how to use it. This might surprise you, but this entire collection has been made out of plastic. PLASTIC. Well, of course she used a bit of wool and silk there and there, but… the spongy clutches, details and pink runway are giving us a note, that the sponges that we use in our kitchens are trendy. Coming back to Mary – the designer totally leaves digital prints behind, which were her signature, and gives us feminine, flawless silhouettes. The bold colours, comfortable volumes and affordable-looking skirts plan to be best-selling this season. Personally, I like this new face of Mary Katrantzou.

Boudicca’s Tribe. Gareth Pugh AW15

February 23, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Boudicca. England. Brave women. Gareth Pugh celebrates 10 years of his label, and this moment is seriously a highlight. In his AW15, the mad prince of British fashion brings fetish leather, sexy volumes and dark queen silhouettes, which all suggest one thing – the avant-garde British fashion is alive. Thankfully, Gareth Pugh continues Alexander McQueen’s legacy of fashion which got balls. For this specific show, the models had their faces and torso painted with red while the hair was cut in a boyish, home-like way. Fur, plastic, leather, wool were presented in a pretty sharp way, belted and covered with chains. I love this collection not only because its avant-garde and ultra-British, but because it’s not so retail-friendly… and it sums up first 10 years of Gareth’s fashion career.

Über 80’s. JW Anderson AW15

February 22, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Two years ago, I would never thought that Jonathan Anderson, the minimal kid from the block, will go 80’s. This period has it’s echo in previous collections, but never so much as in AW15. Corduroy trousers, velvet tops, über-80’s prints, and eccentric earring – it all makes me think about those ladies which sit and gossip about everyone at the market. The shoes seem to be terrific, too – their exggerated buckles and aim to “shorten” the legs are so “un-fashionable”. This collection in overall is not a fashionable one. J.W. Anderson simply showed an ironic, slightly satiric point of view on people, which try to look their best and at the same time look super cheesy. Additionally, the cheesy way of dressing appeared in the 80’s – so now everything is clear.

But is cheesy the new chic? J.W. Anderson possibly imposes an old new movement in fashion. This “thing” is surely going to be a hot topic for fashion journalists.