That bag. By Phoebe Philo for Celine.
style
HC: Slavic. Valentino SS15
Wow. I am moved. Valentino did a collection totally dedicated to Slavic culture and heritage. I definitely see so many Eastern Europpean accents – cubic prints inspired with Marc Chagall; Polish ethno dresses; romantic embroidery; warm and and charming textiles. Chagall, in particular, captivated Maria Grazia and Pierpaolo Piccioli. “He had an incredible life, very hard, but he maintained his optimistic vision,” Piccioli said. The painter’s Belarussian origins provided a leitmotif for the embellishments that are so central to the designers’ aesthetic – bold, but with a toned touch. If talking of romance, Valentino also made hair decorated with real flowers – that was a cherry on the top of the cake. So, a Slavic person, I approve this collection.
HC: In The Garden. Chanel SS15
Am I the only one who thinks Karl Lagerfeld starts to be boring? This haute couture collection feels so… without life. The models were all dressed up as gardener wives, wearing ugly, anti-couture boots, widow straw hats and strange silhouettes, which are totally not eye-catchy. Definitely, if not the high retail of bags and cosmetics, the brand would feel some crisis. He claimed the show came to him in an electronic flash. “One morning in bed, I saw it in a second.” Or maybe he had a peek at the archives? SS10? Ring a bell? Same theme – cute dresses and a garden. But, then, the dresses were really cute.
Bikini Berlin
Bikini Berlin is not an average department store. It’s a place where everything can happen, including the day of dogs. Budapester Straße 38-50
HC: Latex Dreams. Dior SS15
Raf Simons did some crazy latex knee boots with rhinestone crystal inside. Having Allen Jones provoking furniture and art on his mood-board, Raf Simons fused Great Gatsby jumpsuits, 60’s prints and flattering 70’s silhouettes into one, beautiful collection. “My first Couture shows were exercises in understanding the history. The more you understand, the more you see what it can become.” Definitely, Raf is more into couture at Dior… thoses striped tulle skirts are mesmerising! So tribal. The jumpsuits look chic and stylish. And latex shoes which covered the legs made it all a bit eccentric, sexy, flirty.
Photos by Lea Colombo
Design & Culture by Ed 
