Oh gosh. I am drooling over this collection. Give me a reason why shouldn’t I? Phoebe Philo precisely described her woman for fall. “I just want to be a woman“. A woman with ups and downs, which one day is the queen of the world in bicolor satin dresses and second day sophisticated poet or artist in black turtleneck. She wants to be seductive and ooze with sweetness. But she’s more than attractive – she’s confident, open-minded, smart and knows what’s worth for her.

“The best part of this job is finding out more about myself,” Philo said after the show. “It gets deeper and deeper into the roots.” And where those roots went deep today was into a new sense of playfulness. Big, fluffy pom-poms? Otters and foxes and deer as naive animal prints? Duvet coats? “Dressed-up-ness,” Philo called it. “I was never in the head space to approach it before. I find glamour and sexuality awkward. When do they feel authentic? What’s real, what’s not?” Big, rhetorical questions. And Philo addressed them with a collection that, by her own opinion, was a little Latin American. “The blood is hotter,” she said. “The approach is more dramatic.” Of course, Phoebe understands that not every lady feels like going for intense colours. “That’s why there were other times when it was more gritty, more Northern soul, less passionate.”

This is probably the most diverse and eccentric collection Phoebe Philo presented at Celine, but at the same time easy and wearable. Year ago Celine was minimal – now the house is blooming just like the designer. Pregnancy changes women, as my mum says. Phoebe Philo is approving. What’s a definite must-have? Everything.