Gris. Jacquemus Pre-Fall’15

January 29, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Jacquemus gets commercial… and this is his first pre-fall collection. This look-book is not the thing you would expect from Simone Porte – his usually naive, colourful collections are contradictory to this mature, sharp and, as the name suggest, grey-shaded pre-fall. The background seems to be disturbing, too – factories and desolated beach… if talking of the clothes, we can observe exaggerated shoulders, school-uniform lengths and rounded “panels” jutting out of the skirts and tops. Personally, I prefered Jacquemus being more… conceptual? Not that muted?

Men’s – The Tourist. Loewe AW15

January 27, 2015August 21, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

“I want people to come here and like something – if you like one thing that’s great,” said Jonathan Anderson. “Nothing has to make sense together. I want people to just hone in on specific pieces. You have to let people have the freedom to do what they want.” This is why he doesn’t see this men’s collection for Loewe as a show presentation, but rather a place where people can come and see, feel and touch – like the Paris showroom. The Spanish heritage label, Loewe, went great revolution under Anderson’s androgynous wings. But for Loewe, opposite to his own namesake label, he thinks in a bit different way. “I’m obsessed with this idea of doing something and letting it go,” he explained. “You don’t own it anymore. It doesn’t matter anyway, as fashion eats into itself. When you inherit an archive, you start to realise that.” The collection itself, having that dramatic modern, felt not modern, but nostalgic. Those pants, jackets from 40’s… and these heroic wool ponchos and lambskin totes. I can’t really see anything in my personal taste, but the total outcome & concept feels enjoyably fresh and different.

Men’s – Weary Warriors. Yohji Yamamoto AW15

January 25, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Violent Darkness. The make-up faux scars on the faces. The winter guys from Yohji Yamamoto are not the ones you want to mess up with. That was a very classical collection courtesy of Yamamoto – “black says it all: don’t bother me, I don’t bother you” is the most famous quote and motto the designer cultivates each year. Black blazers, black pants, black shirts. Poetic, mysterious. And aggressive thanks to the imprint of fighting on model’s faces. Except the darkness, Yohji showed gleaming velvet suits with marble prints to make all more philosophical.

Men’s – Full Frontal. Rick Owens AW15

January 24, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Let’s go straightly to the topic – Rick Owens went full frontal for his AW15 show. Why? The tank top / dresses (however you call them) has holes placed… yep, there. Although it’s not that visible on the photos, some models had their penises spotted. Well… Hussein Chalayan showed women’s pubic hair in his dresses few years ago. But that really stole the spotlight. And Rick earned the ultimate status of the 2015’s biggest provoker. I mean, I don’t see myself wearing nudity in thoes places just like Rick offers. Definitely, that might not be safe for your health! This is a big field of discussion at the moment…”Nudity is the most simple and primal gesture,” Owens said backstage. “It packs a punch. It’s powerful. It’s a straight world now. It says something about being independent. Who else can really get away with this stuff? It’s a corporate world! This was our private moment.” If talking of the clothes, most them revealed the Adam’s apple. But I thinkt that the knitted “thing” seems to look warm… and surely cold-defending.

Men’s – Badass. Haider Ackermann AW15

January 23, 2015January 23, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

I usually don’t use the word “badass”, but this time is an exception. Haider Ackermann seriously made his dark presentation not give a damn. Dandy-ish, decadent. “The idea was to be able to smell the clothes”. The models where staged on a platform in Musee Galliera, wearing slim trousers, military coats, velvet blazers, accompanied with two girls (Mica Arganaraz, I see you!). I enjoyed most the richness of fabrics, colours. It’s so typical for Haider. Also, this rock’n’roll attitude made all that gentlemen-ish mood feel lighter and more chaotic!