Plastic is Fantastic. Mary Katrantzou AW15

February 23, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

It’s the first good collection Mary Katrantzou presented for a loooong time. And the Greek designers proves, that plastic is fantastic, if you know how to use it. This might surprise you, but this entire collection has been made out of plastic. PLASTIC. Well, of course she used a bit of wool and silk there and there, but… the spongy clutches, details and pink runway are giving us a note, that the sponges that we use in our kitchens are trendy. Coming back to Mary – the designer totally leaves digital prints behind, which were her signature, and gives us feminine, flawless silhouettes. The bold colours, comfortable volumes and affordable-looking skirts plan to be best-selling this season. Personally, I like this new face of Mary Katrantzou.

Boudicca’s Tribe. Gareth Pugh AW15

February 23, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Boudicca. England. Brave women. Gareth Pugh celebrates 10 years of his label, and this moment is seriously a highlight. In his AW15, the mad prince of British fashion brings fetish leather, sexy volumes and dark queen silhouettes, which all suggest one thing – the avant-garde British fashion is alive. Thankfully, Gareth Pugh continues Alexander McQueen’s legacy of fashion which got balls. For this specific show, the models had their faces and torso painted with red while the hair was cut in a boyish, home-like way. Fur, plastic, leather, wool were presented in a pretty sharp way, belted and covered with chains. I love this collection not only because its avant-garde and ultra-British, but because it’s not so retail-friendly… and it sums up first 10 years of Gareth’s fashion career.

Über 80’s. JW Anderson AW15

February 22, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Two years ago, I would never thought that Jonathan Anderson, the minimal kid from the block, will go 80’s. This period has it’s echo in previous collections, but never so much as in AW15. Corduroy trousers, velvet tops, über-80’s prints, and eccentric earring – it all makes me think about those ladies which sit and gossip about everyone at the market. The shoes seem to be terrific, too – their exggerated buckles and aim to “shorten” the legs are so “un-fashionable”. This collection in overall is not a fashionable one. J.W. Anderson simply showed an ironic, slightly satiric point of view on people, which try to look their best and at the same time look super cheesy. Additionally, the cheesy way of dressing appeared in the 80’s – so now everything is clear.

But is cheesy the new chic? J.W. Anderson possibly imposes an old new movement in fashion. This “thing” is surely going to be a hot topic for fashion journalists.

Diana Vreeland. Marc Jacobs AW15

February 20, 2015February 20, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

“The eye has to travel” is a quote that always felt close to me. Who said it? Diana Vreeland, the queen of fashion from the 20th century. Fortunately, this quote is also important to Marc Jacobs – his AW15 collection definitely proves it. With a stormy temper, the models walked down the gloomy runway wearing Victorian gowns, Night Porter inspired sheer dresses, pilgrim shoes, art nouveau prints on flared skirts – you’ve got a feeling that you’re filtering a gorgeous Vogue edition which is guest edited by Marc. And Katie Grand, of course!

“She was a genius,” Jacobs said of the legendary Vogue editor, Diana, backstage. “She got the whole fashion thing: being decisive, being so excitable, and then being as passionate and dismissive about the very same thing the next day.” Jacobs read her Memos book while he was working on the Fall collection; the surprise is that he hasn’t made a muse of Vreeland before. “I felt like that’s what fashion is,” he continued, “that complete addiction, obsession, that I’ve-got-to-have-it need until I basically wouldn’t be caught dead in it.” The darkness changed into monochrome and bold red; the textiles were opulent and rich. As it’s the last show of New York Fashion Week, Marc Jacobs gave us a delicious dessert, leaving the best for the end.

Tribal Attack. Proenza Schouler AW15

February 20, 2015February 20, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

I think Proenza Schouler discovered TOO many fields for AW15. Fish net tights. Tribal embroidery (feathers, some kind of jungle decoration which came out of nowhere) . Flesh-exposure (Helmut Lang’s calling!). It wouldn’t be a Proenza Schouler collection without the complex textile processes that make their pieces so special and so synthetic. Backstage, they called it their most technical collection yet – as they described sections of “chiffon needle-punched over over and again to create a stiffened fabric used on the tailoring and the tweed that was made out of strips of fabrics, that were especially woven for the purpose”. Even without knowing the ins and outs of all the fabrications, it was obvious that what pulsed through was pure innovation. But innovation doesn’t always mean a good collection. I prefer when the collection has a fluent line, even if it’s is called abstract, sophisticated or mindful. In this collection, Jack and Lazaro lost this fluency which they always mastered in previous collections. Plus, I can’t forgive the fish-net tights. But, look! They debuted with menswear! There is only one look for men, but. Although, I don’t feel this specific collection, I am truly interested where Proenza Schouler is heading in the future,