Men’s – Casual Days. Bally AW15

January 20, 2015January 20, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Wow, Bally amazed me. Under designer Pablo Coppola, the Swiss nation’s most famous brand—a 164-year-old shoe manufacturer—is loosening up into something pretty appealing. For his second official menswear season at Bally, Coppola did justice to his surname by turning to cinema for inspiration: “a lot of Wes Anderson, and specifically The Royal Tenenbaums,” he said. That’s visible – the yellow ostrich leather coats and accessorice feel so refreshing and edgy… but at the same time casual. And, Coppola showed the perfect suit I would wear everyday – the beige combo of blazer and tailored pants, styled with a beanie and sneakers.

Berlin: Me & Margiela

January 17, 2015January 17, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

I did it. These Maison Martin Margiela boots are so good. Andreas Murkudis store in Berlin knows what’s good for me.

Innovative. Acne Pre-Fall’15

January 15, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

For pre-fall, Acne thought about experimenting with texture – lace mixed with knittwear, lurex combines with leather, patch-work – all of that brought an interesting fuse. The first look was all about “wild” knitted sweater which totally confused the proportions of the model. Also, there was the cute knitted hat in lilac – a must-have. The signtaure vests and coats are here, too, but in new colours. The only thing that disturbs me are the shoes…

Faux Nostalgia. J.W. Anderson Pre-Fall’15

January 9, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Jonathan Anderson surprises. His SS15 was unexpectedly lady-like while pre-fall is very nostalgic – 60’s mini skirts, 70’s psychedelic prints and “granny” necklaces and bracelets. “Nothing works together,” he added gleefully during the presentation. “When something makes me uncomfortable, I resist the temptation to make it look good.” That’s visible- in this collection he mixes so many styles from the past, that the result seems to be modern, and surreal. A bit like the Soviet Russian architecture – at the first sight it seems to be modern, but in reality deep historical influences hide behind it’s walls.

Ukrainian Institute of Technology, Kiev

Presidium of the Russian Academies of Science, Moscow

Polythechnic Institute, Minsk

But coming back to the collection – “I’ve never been a designer designer,” he said. “I see it more as a look, what’s new right now.” And this—with its odd fabrics and peculiar proportions, cerebral and sensual—looks just that. New right now. But with faux cover which hides the old roots. The colours and textures combined with those curvy belts and emalia earrings makes me wonder. And I like when a collection makes me want to think, compare and research.

Never Gonna Love Again. Lanvin Pre-Fall’15

January 8, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Lanvin’s pre-fall is so into Lykke Li’s I Never Learn album for me. The song Never Gonna Love Again matches perfectly Mica Arganaraz and Jamie Bochert in this gorgeous look-book. So dramatic, so chic, so elusive… over-sized suits, loafers, fluffy furs, maxi dresses and beautiful floral embroidery – and everything fulfilled with a dose of mysterious fog. Alber Elbaz just keeps his style. Non-chalant, but utterly dandy with a feminine twist. Baby can you hear the rain fall on me, never gonna love again, baby can you hear my heart cry tonight, I can’t keep running away, this time I can’t keep running away ’cause I’m never gonna love again.