Surfboard Dreams. The Row Pre-Fall’15

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Last pre-fall was dark and heavy. This pre-fall is light and smooth. Why? The Olsens went beach for this autumn. Surfboard inspirations? Yes, but in a very subtle way. Only the fastening zippers and fur ponchos worn like “surfers wear their towels”. And of course pool-slides with beaded and sequined straps handmade by a nonagenarian granny, The Row is known for its beautiful minimalism, but this season, as all the others for last few years, is perfect. The mood, the colour palette (lilac, beige, claret…) and textile usage. And the most important – everything is super wearable… again, The Row takes a bow.

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Calm Down

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Dries Van Noten is man, that knows what women want, and that’s not so common nowadays. His collections are always so clear, so feminine and beautiful… for SS11, for example, we had a blast of hand-painted florals; for AW12, Dries brought oriental mood to his chic silhouettes; for SS15, he made the models (and clothes) calm down and sit down on a hand-made carpet from Buenos Aires. Known for great styling skills, he was the first to make a woolen sweater, striped shirt and feather-appliqued midi skirt look so good. Forgetting about being shiny on the New Year eve- maybe one of those outfits will inspire you?

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Jan-Jan Van Essche

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Born and raised in Antwerp, Jan-Jan Van Essche menswear brand blends ethnic tradition with western characteristics- knitted ponchos, wool hats and loose attitude. Together with his partner Piëtro Celestina, whom Jan-Jan met during his fashion studies at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts, he runs Atelier Solarshop just a few blocks away from their  loft where they live and work.The former solarshop carries Jan-Jan’s pieces and vintage treasures that reflect his style and mood. In Jan-Jan’s latest collection, entitled INITE, he shows his signatures- lazy blazers, pants and non-chalantly worn scarves. Also, we’ve got a quiet, peaceful colour palette perfect for every season. But what strikes you first in his new look-book, are the gold-polished socks which give the all of the outfits a edgy touch. This Antwerp-based guy keeps it close to his own, personal aesthetic and I love it (by the way, his models seem to be perfect for the overall atmosphere of the collection). More on ateliersolarshop.be and janjanvanessche.com

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Funagata bag by Kazumi Takigawa

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Walter Bosse hedgegog

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Jan-Jan Van Essche hat

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Hui-Hui silk scarf

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 Nickel bronze cutlery

To Meadham Kirchhoff

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I need to confess something. When I heard the news, that Meadham Kirchhoff won’t show it’s AW15 collections becaues their “debts have caught up”, I nearly started to cry. That might surprise you- right, I never really wrote anything special about Meadham Kirchhoff. On my blog, I post only this what I like and feel- and Meandham Kirchhoff’s style is not always on my taste radar. But I always, always observe their collections with some kind of amusement and respect. They were, and are, so brave. In the sea of minimalism, normcore or 10,000 euro Valentino dresses, it’s hard to have a label with clothes which do not match any of those three categories. Well, only if you are some kind of Versace. In reality, Kirchhoff’s pieces are pricey, but they are as beautifully embroidered, as for example Erdem. Then, another problem strikes. “The way the industry works, you’re driven to do all these grandiose shows, all these things that are incredibly expensive,” Benjamin Kirchhoff said. “and then one day, the sponsorship runs out. You’re on your own.” Meanwhile, Edward Meadham pointed to the struggle to fulfill orders for stockists: “It’s always seemed like, ‘How do we do this? How do we keep up?’” In other words, Meadham Kirchhoff didn’t have trouble until they became an REALLY independent label.

But what’s interesting, is the fact that Meadham Kirchhoff is seriously loved by Londoners. They are so true, real. I think it is the last big something after Vivienne Westwood’s SEX shop and Alexander McQueen years in London. It’s punk, it’s cool, it’s something buzzy and fuzzy. The glitter jumble; the ribbons attached to every pair of boots; the tampon tree at SS15 show venue. Kitsch is sick, but in both meanings at Meadham Kirchhoff. Well, what can I say more. I just wish them a bright future (and this type of talent always finds it’s right path). The rumour has it, that possibly Benjamin and Edward are going to takeover Schiapparelli which was suddenly abandoned by Marco Zanini. And that would be EPIC. I also see them at Oscar del la Renta, if not that boring Nina Ricci guy.

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Y-A-W-N to fashion without Meadham Kirchhoff.