That was a very classical Lanvin collection- dresses, jackets, t-shirts with skirts- ant that all in energetic metallic fabrics! Well, that was surely not the best Lanvin, but it wasn’t bad. I loved the Great Gatsby inspired dresses- in reality, the collection was like a loud party under Jay Gatsby’s roof. Everything was kitschy and full of splendour… and what a bit suprised me, pretty warm as for Summer. But still, the collection was nothing spectacural, although cool. Very Lanvin!
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Furious. Rick Owens SS14
Nobody expect this from Rick Owens. And possibly, even Rick himself didn’t think this will happen. Well… I don’t know how to start. Surely, this is the most Insta buzzing show of the season. Models, no, women, who totally broke the rules of a normal model sizes, went down the runway. But these weren’t just normal women from streets (while it would be already shocking!) but Washington Divas, Soul Steppers, The Momentums, The Zetas where… stepping and doing Zulu on the catwalk. These strange names are their dance group names, and it’s based on African dance that shows lots of furious elements. And, the collection was called Furious after all…
I definitely can’t say I didn’t liked the collection. The clothes were unfortunately boring, it felt entertaining to watch these ladies dance in slim clothes… I think that Rick definitely feels bored with the world- after the SS14 menswear were Estonian band Winny Puhh played metallica in alien language, definitely biggest attention was on them and not on clothes… But, is that really so important? To just have a nice show? That will do controversy and will be present on every fashion blog? For now I am more excited about this model chose than the collection itself…
Shaggy. Gareth Pugh SS14
So the sun again rose up in Gareth Pugh world. After depressing, heavy collections kept in black, this season is all about blue, white and… Shaggy wigs! The wigs are the funniest thing- they look like made from Charlie Le Mindu hands! This Paris-based designer, known for sculptured, sharp forms and dramatical long dresses, still keeps his characteristic touches in all his collection. For example this white jacket that reminds of a kimono was the same last season. Maybe only the colour changed. Definitely, Gareth is out of Winter depression and we… Well, we will still have it.
Belle Epoque. Van Noten SS14
Dries Van Noten again did what he’s best at- the Saint Germain chic in his SS14 collection. After hot checked shirts and Parisian boheme inspired feather dresses, it’s the time for Parisian Belle Epoque style. Dries really did a good job. Amazing ultra big ruffles, metallic elements and flower prints look simply fantastic. Beautiful dresses with middle length, chic jackets and street influenced sweatshirts were also here. So, definitely the colour for Van Noten that ruled was metallic gold. And the closing look with Sasha Luss that was all covered with ruffles still sits in my head!
Chic. Christophe Lemaire SS14
What I love most about Paris Fashion Week’s beginnings, are the collection of all these emerging designers… Well, I lobe the Chanel-Celine part too, but the first one is so… Modern, elegant and elusive! After Julien David’s and Anthony’ Vaccarello’s presentation I want even more of this kind of talents- and here is one- Christophe Lemaire! This young Parisian that for few seasons is an art director at Hermes RTW, is known for his minimalistic Elegance aesthetics… And best presentation venues. This season it’s an super chic Summer living room with palms and curtains… It really works out with the collection for me! I am simply in love with all that beige on coats and this green jumpsuit… So tres chic!
Design & Culture by Ed 