Obsessed with green tailoring and wheat fields. This Maryam Nassir Zadeh look from resort 2020 would perfectly fit in this scenario…
Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
The Look – Maryam Nassir Zadeh Resort 2020
Tailoring
Dream. Jacquemus SS20
Although I’ve been sick for a couple of days, and a collection that happened a week ago in today’s fashion industry’s pace seems like a year ago (especially during the endless fashion week of menswear, resort, ready-to-wear and couture), I’m still sure of one thing: Jacquemus spring-summer 2020 collection was a DREAM. By now you surely have seen hundreds of images of a vibrant pink runway going through field of purple lavender, under the gorgeously bright blue Provençal sky. Simon Porte Jacquemus took the fashion crowd to his hometown region and celebrated his brand’s 10th anniversary. The brand is completely independent, super desirable and Jacquemus, the person himself, is the same French guy with a joyful spirit. While anniversary collections tend to be a remix of a brand’s biggest hits, Jacquemus presented lots of hot newness that keeps on developing the brand’s language. “I wanted something sophisticated but at the same time as light as a cocktail in summer,” he said backstage. The moment when Mica Arganaraz opened the show in a white, over-sized blazer, it was clear that tailoring is on the designer’s mind. He nailed it for both, women and men. Parachute dresses in olive-green and bold fuchsia were my personal highlights, just like the shirts with Cezanne-esque landscapes and culottes in utilitarian styles. Jacquemus is a major accessories business, and this season he didn’t dissapoint. From XXL bazaar bags and signature art-heel shoes to old-school net grocery bags and basket handbags (they seem to stay with us), you want it all. Happy Birthday to Jacquemus, the brand. Big, big congrats to Jacquemus, the person!
Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
Men’s – Classics. Lemaire SS20
When so much is going on in menswear (especially this season), there might be a need for something classic. In this case, you can’t go wrong with Lemaire. Christophe Lemaire and Sarah Linh Tran‘s spring-summer 2020 look-book is the perfect balance of softened workwear and tailored essentials, all kept in a colour palette of powdery, earthy tones. Shirting and loose tops came in prints produced in collaboration with a marbling designer, originally a specialist on bookmaking. The collection subtly nodded to Rüdiger Vogler in 1974’s Wim Wenders film Alice in the Cities, but even not knowing that, you’re completely convinced by this line-up. That’s the power of Lemaire – references are low-key, uninvasive, and you’re focused on the clothes.
Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
Tactile. Gabriela Hearst Resort 2020
Gabriela Hearst‘s resort 2020 shows the essence of her brand: fabrics and tailoring. The pre-collection features aloe linen (that moisturizes the skin), a hand-knit as weightless as a feather, macramé detailing spliced between the pleats of minimal dresses and skirts, finest cashmere used in coats… all of this is really an exercise in luxurious tactility. Meanwhile the tailoring surprised with an interesting development: the jackets were gathered and tied at the waist, not with belts but via construction. So, a sort of invisible belt. The ones with artisan fringes looked sublime as well.
Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
Fun is Key. Thom Browne Resort 2020
“When quality is so important, I think you also have to counterbalance that with something that makes it seem not so serious. Fun is key.” This is how, in two sentences, Thom Browne explained the quintessence of his ready-to-wear line, which is presented as pre-collections (the fashion shows in Paris are ready-to-wear too, but on a very different level…). For resort 2020, Browne showed his signatures, like cropped suits (this time in cute, dolphin print) and impeccably tailored coats in a not-just-for-business kind of attitude. It’s a classic Thom Browne collection, cheered up with a gorgeous vinyl rain-coat in yellow and white rubber boots with the brand’s signature tricolour tag.
Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
Design & Culture by Ed 