Queenie. Richard Quinn AW18

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Some young designers appear on everyone’s lips thanks to their strikingly unique talent. Some luckily get to the mainstream by dressing a celeb, or rather an Insta-girl. Meanwhile, Richard Quinn‘s phenomenon got elevated through an exceptional combination: the guy has the talent. And, the guy had Queen Elisabeth II in his show’s f-row. I suppose the biggest names in the industry would be life-fulfilled after such an honour. For Richard, it’s just the beginning.

Quinn is the first recipient of Her Majesty’s British Design Award that is here to raise and support UK’s emerging fashion stars. With his knack for collage-ing and manufacturing prints in the most fantastic ways, there’s no wonder why the designer won. “It all feels a bit surreal,” Quinn exclaimed backstage of the show. “I only found out a few days ago that I’d won. When I saw the blue cushion on the front row, I knew it was real; I knew she was coming.” The emphasis that Richard puts on prints and patterns is impressive not only because he does wonderful ball gowns with a modern twist or floral-shocker puffas. It’s the sense of unity he builds among young designers and fashion students in London with his print studio in Peckham – it’s there, where he shares and lets for an open-access to printwork. And who would have thought that he has graduated with a master’s from Central Saint Martins just a few years ago? A bright, bright way future is there for Quinn, I believe.

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

#2015 – Jacquemus

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So, 2015 approaches its end, and it’s the perfect time to look back at the fashion designers who really made the cut this year. New York, London, Milan and Paris are full of great minds – but some of them have truly changed the course of trends, or rather the tendency for anti-trends. In my subjective choice, I searched for both, individualism and something more than “fashion”. 2015 is a year of designers, who made their creative vision a contemporary philosophy of everyday dressing and, of course, beauty.

Simone Porte Jacquemus is the guy who made Paris feel the youth – his childlike, fairy-tale vision and dreamy fashion shows are filled with emotions and unconventional chic. His collections trigger controversy, even though they reminisce childish, naive and even primitive way of being. What’s more, his namesake label, Jacquemus, is sold by the most influential boutiques and on-line stores worldwide. And 2015 has been his most daring year to date.

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AW15 – Dadaistic silhouettes and primitively masked faces. Barefoot models. Naive nudity. Simone Porte Jacquemus continues his “childish” fashion journey, keeping his AW15 arty. With faces painted by Sebastien Bieniek, which felt very abstract and eerie at the same time, the collection provokes. Explaining that he wanted to capture some of the instinctual feel of being a child, the designer said: “I cut jackets like little kids will do—sometimes the cut is weird, there is just a half top. I like this randomness.”  The whole collection, full of exaggeration and peculiar sex-appeal felt even more artistic and disturbing when you looked at the venue directed by Alex de Betak – dilapidated walls and kemping chairs felt on-point while accompanying the clothes. Escapism at its full strength.

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Resort’16 – The country-side environment perfectly fits the  minimal collection shot in the rural province of France, full of lavender scrubs and sunshine. The clothes which were based on asymmetric confusion and exaggerated silhouettes (Jacquemus’ ultimate signatures) had an feminine allure about them – just like the Joana Preiss standing in the field of wheat.

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SS16 – This collection is different from all up-to-date. The Jacquemus girl used to be a cheerful Frenchie from Marseilles, wearing over-sized tops and striped pantaloons. This season, this girl is not that smiley anymore. In the dreamlike theatre that Simone prepared, the whole mood felt rather melancholic, and very poetic. The whole “performance” felt psychodramatic, as a young child (the designer’s cousin, Jean) pushed a large, red ball of fabric across the stage, and Jacquemus himself appeared, leading a white horse. Then, the models came out, wearing signature, colour-block dresses and silhouette-deconstructing coats. “We know me for my smile and my sunshine and my (love of the) seaside,” Jacquemus said, reflecting on his fashion that we know from the past seasons. Also, he admitted that the atmosphere of this season was different. “The girl was not dark, she was quite fresh – but you can see a little tiny bit, I tried to have this kind of sadness.” The name of the collection, Le Nez Rouge, means the red nose – but also, it reminded Simon about his childhood illness that caused his nose to be constantly red. Childhood memories and the whole idea of naivette is from the very beginning present in Jacquemus’ career. The designer is just 25, won the second LVMH Prize Award and has more and more buyers in his Parisian showroom each season – it seems that the pressure is pretty high for him – but, Jacquemus just won’t entirely grow up.

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Michał Mrzygłód

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Today at the amazing fashion fair here in Poznan, Poland, I had a pleasure to meet Michal Mrzyglod, the designer of a fresh label Mrzyglod. This London based label created by this young, amazing designer, is a mixture of street style influence, hi-tech fabrics and Polish folklore cut-outs but are made thanks to laser in Michal’s designs. As he shows his impressive pieces on male model, I would rather say that they are more unisex- definitely they are looking great on women. What I loved in his new collection that I saw today in live at the Hush fashion fair, is the youthful energy, strong colours and the practicality that is thanks to fabrics created by the designer. There is a big use of nowadays hottest material, neoprene and lots of salmon leather attached to sweatshirts and bags. Oh, and the shoes… These look really cosmic! If talking of Polish/London fashion scene, Michal Mrzyglod is the name to watch!

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Boom-Boom. Fausto Puglisi SS14

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When Karolina Kurkova opens a show of a young designer, that means that a real talent is nurturing into something much more bigger… Fausto Puglisi, the designer of the moment from Milan, known for checked varsity jackets and gold ornamented skirts, this season had his first ever runway show. For SS14, Fausto not only showed his clothes have their own rock ‘n roll aestethics, but also are very feminine. We could see a Carolina Herrera mixed with Axel Rose in these amazing looks- a maxi blue dress with beautifully embroidered palms tapped with a leather biker jacket. Not only this collections had balls, but it looked real cool and great for Summer strolling somewhere at the Palm Springs… The fav designer of Coco Rocha, is now stealing the spotlight from a bit dusty Milan Fashion Week, but just ended today. Now we head to… Paris!

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Female. JW Anderson SS14

Slide1-kopiaLondon Fashion Week have just started… and it’s first hot collection is over here! The J.W. Anderson for SS14 is like a round-up and something more of his all collections. This young, ultra talented designers who claims that fashion will never be art for him, is going to be invested by… yes LVMH, as rumours say. Will we soon see a first J.W. Anderson store in London? Hopefully. This collection is definitely one of the strongest collection of Jonathan- I loved all these textures that looked like origmi and these transparent tops with black elements look marvelous… maybe it is not to pracitical since boobs will be seen and a bra would surely spoil it, but the world of J.W. is always shocking. Anderson is famous for his menswear collection full od skirts and dresses, and is mostly known for his gender mix aesthetics… However this collection is very feminine. And I like it!

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