Anti-Hero. Talia Byre AW23

Talia Byre is a designer worth keeping on your fashion radar. For autumn-winter 2023, the London-based designer found inspiration in the leading women of films like The Graduate and Funny Girl, and wanted to celebrate the ‘anti-hero’ with her latest offering. “The person I’m designing for is brash, greedy, selfish; all of what’s perceived as the worst traits to have,” she said in a preview. “But what’s great about them is that they’re also strong and independent – it’s their way of saying a big ‘fuck you’ to society.” The collection explored the sort of wardrobe that an anti-hero figure would aspire to own. There was a duality of toughness while retaining sensuality, whether in the form of screen-printed leopard patterns on wool and cashmere pieces, or figure-hugging maxi dresses in black and dark cherry brown. “This season, sexiness is expressed more subtly,” Byre said. “However, a look can unravel into more daring silhouettes with the undoing of a single button.” The tailored coats were particularly strong – one in navy wool with a dangerously high slit up the back, and another featuring a hood constructed from waterproof technical fabric. A cotton poplin shirt dress with woven stripes, a dramatically cinched waist-line, and voluminous sleeves was also worth noting.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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