We’re so lucky to see Christopher Kane back in the game. Fashion really missed his highly erotic, quirky unobviousness. And London Fashion Week was in a dire need for a good debut – so the Mulberry appointment couldn’t make more sense.

Kane kicked off this new chapter with a refreshing clean slate, brushing away the brand’s dusty, boho-ish residue and repositioning it as the cool thing. Wasn’t that always the point of Mulberry bags and their It-girl appeal? The designer came up with very, very cool-looking leathers – from minimal black dresses to substantial coats – signalling Mulberry’s new ambition to become London’s go-to name for leather, just as Bottega Veneta is in Milan. What worked especially well were the countryside-perfect essentials, purified to their core: a checked short-sleeved shirt, a proper down jacket, a classic V-neck sweater. Grounded clothes, subtly tweaked in proportion in that very Christopher Kane kind of sexy way.

I even loved the exaggeration of the logo sweatshirt, worn with a white pencil skirt and a pair of pumps. It felt punchy and cheeky. Brands like Mulberry are among the hardest to revive, but Kane has laid some very solid foundations for making this work.

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