Actually, Dolce & Gabbana used to great fashion before it became commercial, millenial-loving (duh) trash. With a backdrop of blossoming trees and lace curtains, Stefano and Domenico‘s glitzy glamour met power-dressing and… Madonna! I guess the fans of Material Girl went through an orgy after they saw those heavily beaded T-shirts with the musician’s most iconic album covers (as pictured above in Steven Meisel’s advertising campaign starring Gisele Budchen). But in 2001, Dolce & Gabbana brought some of the most chic suits to their runway, as well as Monica Belluci approved sheer eveningwear. Those were the times.
For her memorable spring-summer 2008, Miuccia Prada worked closely with artist James Jean on developing special prints for the clothes and the show venue. The inked drawings depict a lush and slightly scandalous landscape of flowers and nymphs (blending suggestions of Art Nouveau and Hieronymus Bosch). By projecting the actual imaginary world over the dresses and ball-skirts, then distorting and separating the various colour layers, the Prada fairytale seemed to breath throughout the entire season. And even though nearly a decade passed since the show took place, looking back at this intriguing collection takes you to another, magical place.
P.s. Recently, Prada has invited Jean for another equally fantastical collaboration – read about the brand’s resort 2018 collection here.
Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
Spring / summer 2011 for men by Haider Ackermann.The designer titled his show “A Carte Blanche Named Opium”, and the elegantly spare book (he called it a “carnet de voyage”) that was distributed before his Spring presentation in Florence during Pitti Uomo Fashion Week promised an appropriately dark, sensual head trip. Men in embellished jackets and upholstery trousers, women in their languidly draped palazzo pants and layered silk tanks. One of my all-time favourite by Ackermann.
Although nobody knows what’s happening with Helmut Lang at the moment, still, the label’s archives are rich in remarkable bits. The moment when Elise Crombez wore that sporty tank-top, polished skirt and nude stilettos in 2004, it stroke all New Yorkers and Lang fans. Like an intense ray of light. Or sudden arrival of summer. Happy Throwback Thursday!