It’s the first good collection Mary Katrantzou presented for a loooong time. And the Greek designers proves, that plastic is fantastic, if you know how to use it. This might surprise you, but this entire collection has been made out of plastic. PLASTIC. Well, of course she used a bit of wool and silk there and there, but… the spongy clutches, details and pink runway are giving us a note, that the sponges that we use in our kitchens are trendy. Coming back to Mary – the designer totally leaves digital prints behind, which were her signature, and gives us feminine, flawless silhouettes. The bold colours, comfortable volumes and affordable-looking skirts plan to be best-selling this season. Personally, I like this new face of Mary Katrantzou.
Iris Van Herpen is a designer, that is between high-technology and imagination. And, what’s most exciting about her, is the fact, that she makes both of these things real- or rather bio-real. Her ready-to-wear collection for AW14 showed in Paris was called Biopiracy- the biological respiration. Three models were elevated in vacuum spaces, having their air taken away every minute by the plastic which shrinked. The models looked very alien- like if an UFO was going to be born! Surely, that made the show really buzzed about (to that degree that National Geographic got interested in it)… But talking of the collection it was… extreme. Not only because of the shoes designed by Rem Koolhas, but becasue of the sci-fi shapes and fabrics. The most obvious example of this is her groundbreaking embracing of 3-D printing, which is becoming something of a signature. It gives many of her clothes an architectural quality, and today’s final silicone 3-D-printed dress was made in conjunction with one of her collaborators, the Canadian architect Philip Beesley. Collaboration is key for Van Herpen; one of her other working relationships is with the Material Department of MIT. Her next step is a project with CERN—yes, the supercollider people… Iris knows how to make Paris Fashion Week go outer space!
Goga Ashkenazi, the owner and “creative director” of the old Couture label Vionnet, just hired a new designer- Hussein Chalayan, the men who did LED gowns, table skirts and all other crazy fashion you can imagine from the 90’s. This SS14 collection for this Parisian house was about decision- new or old? Hussein made it of course futuristic. The runway was very industrial with car elements lying all around. While the forms of this pretty minimalistic collection were modest, but sharp, the detail nailed it. Aluminium plugs used as belts; chargers as necklaces; and huge, hand embroidered keys on the gowns. I really like this move of Vionnet- taking new into old and another way round. What do you think of this “unexpected” collaboration?