Yoga in the Morning, Oscars in the Evening. Tom Ford AW20

Here we are again: the fashion month has started. But it actually kicked off in Los Angeles, not New York, for a brief Tom Ford moment. The Oscars night is this Sunday, so Ford just couldn’t split between the two coasts – dressing the actors is his domain. And he has always mentioned LA as the city that reasonates more with his brand’s identity than the Big Apple. Rene Zellweger, Miley Crus, John Hamm, Jennifer Lopez and Demi Moore all took a rest in the front row last evening, and saw what you can always expect from Tom: sublime eveningwear, for both men and women. Will any of these lace dresses hit the red carpet tomorrow? Big hopes for the crystalline numer with double velvet bows. While the after dark part was great (or actually properly classic), the ready-to-wear definitely didn’t impress this much. Backstage, Ford was speaking about the Los Angeles way of life, which surely is all about Chateau Marmont, yoga and palo santo, but I’m still not sure if jersey sweat-pants, sweat-skirts and sweat-tops (with merch-like logos…) aren’t too lazy for a fashion show (and it’s not 2014 outside!). The floor-sweeping tie-dye caftans styled with all that athleisure-wear didn’t help either.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Men’s – Satin 90s. Tom Ford AW20

As told by Tom Ford’s team at his Milan showroom, when the designer was making his name at Gucci in the latter-half of the 1990s, he had a routine when it came to pants. Apparently Ford would loop a strip of leather through the two front belt-loops either side of his fly and knot them to ensure a just-so fit. For autumn-winter 2020, Ford offers his pant-tie – now called an Obi – that was incorporated into the kicky iron-creased pants that accompanied his attractive jackets. The looks is non-chalant, yet at ease. These suits came in a multitude of hues and fabrications – like gently washed denim or the incredible lilac satin(or the Madonna-Gucci-shirt-blue!). When shorn of a matching jacket the pant shape in denim looked as if taken straight from the 90s. Summing up, Ford’s wardrobe is super hot this season.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Time for Ease. Tom Ford SS20

Tom Ford took his guests to the least Tom Ford place ever: the subway, specifically the disused platform of the Bowery stop. Ford’s press notes mentioned the famous shot of Andy Warhol and Edie Sedgwick emerging out of a manhole cover. The subway also clicks with his recent interest in simplicity. “I think that it’s a time for ease,” he wrote, “and in that way a return to the kind of luxurious sportswear that America has become known for all over the world.” Indeed, there was lots of luxurious sportswear, but properly slick and rich: a jersey t-shirt with the sleeves rolled up worn with a maxi, duchesse satin skirt; sharp satin blazers styled with nylon basketball shorts (shorts – a topic Ford hates, but confronts in the most sublime way). The final looks feautured molded plastic tops that were a homage to Yves Saint Laurent’s Lalanne breastplates. Ford kept them in Jeff Koons’ balloon dogs colours and in result they perfectly fitted the matching flowing maxi skirts models wore. Was this Ford’s best collection? Definitely not. But it proved once again that the designer thrives in making his sexy, never-lazy aesthetical language relevant and powerful.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.