Power Dressing. Tom Ford SS19

After his over-the-top, kitschy-chic fashion show back in spring, Tom Ford’s spring-summer 2019 collection felt like a colour detox mixed with self-reflection. Black, white, beiges and pale lilac were the leading shades, while the entire line-up took us down the memory lane of Ford’s career. For a moment, we all experienced again his 90s momentum at Gucci, that was all about refined sexiness and confidence – words that match the designer’s current work with the same precision. To a surprise of many, there were as well references to the few year tenure at Yves Saint Laurent, the period that shaped Tom’s aesthetic into a more sublime, after-dark vision of women.

But back to 2018. Draped skirts with lace inserts; jackets and blazers made of fake crocodile leather; satin cocktail dresses and evening gowns with pony-hair details. Some of the looks are fit for goddesses of seduction, other for cosmopolitan bosses. This one all-leather look seemed to be taken straight out of Roxy Music’s cover that featured Amanda Lear. But no, in the end this collection wasn’t created with a dominatrix in mind, but for powerful women who want garments that look equally powerful. The menswear part can be described with one word: handsome. Conclusion: when the evening comes, you want to meet both, the Ford woman and Ford man.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Fierce! Tom Ford AW18

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A new make-up line. Vegan confessions and fur-free philosophy. A very successful menswear collection was presented just a few days ago. With his autumn-winter 2018 collection, Tom Ford doesn’t only open the official fashion month. He celebrates himself to the fullest.

Whether it’s informed in the 80s heavy references (animal spots leggings, acid colour sequinned dresses, zirconia embellished kitten heels) or Edie Sedgwick’s Warholian glamour, Ford’s runway collection is a splash of joyful ‘fashion is fashion’ optimism. I can’t get enough of these really fierce looking jackets and sleek suites he delivered last night. The show’s diverse casting is as well a big, big point for Ford – although he never seemed to have a problem with having beautiful models of different skin colour in his shows. The #MeToo movement got a space here as well in form of ‘Pussy Power’ clutches, covered in glitter.

NYFW, kicking it off the right, powerful way.

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

You Do You. Tom Ford SS18

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Wherever I look, I see a long feature about the importance and potential of Tom Ford. Business of Fashion did one recently. New York Mag had it in August, exclusively sharing bits on the designer’s work behind the spring-summer 2018 collection. All of the magazines praise Tom Ford for his work at Gucci and Yves Saint Laurent, for his venture in the film industry (like Nocturnal Animals) and most of all, his own brand with commercially succesful beauty line, men’s ready-to-wear and growing womenswear. Is Tom Ford’s PR working night and day, lately? Or maybe just in the year of 2017 the fashion industry decided to agree on one thing – Tom Ford is boss. And his fashion, season-to-season, wherever he designs, says you do you. Really, no else does Tom Ford as well as, gasp, Tom Ford.

There were rumours that Ford is planning to do a loud 90s revival – and that was certainly true. Backless jumpsuits, shoulder pads in denim, killer puchsia and lots of bling-bling were present, giving New York fashion week a glamorous kick-off. Don’t think it was nostalgic, as nostalgia in fashion often ends looking dusty and pretentious. That was a sleek line-up of ultra-glossy and great-body-demanding clothes, with no deeper meanings. That’s a collection that you look at with a relaxed, optimist eye at the beginning of the fashion month triathlon. Surely not like at a show of the last few days that you would confuse with Balmain and rather skip. But still, Ford is in a very, very good form, and what’s more, on his own terms.

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Killer. Tom Ford AW17

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Although Tom Ford has resigned from the see-now buy-now business strategy, that doesn’t mean he feels dissapointed – his autumn-winter 2017 look-book is the best prove for that. Atrakhan scrotum bags, metallic square-toe heels, empowering fur coats, sequinned turtlenecks, multi-coloured tights, PVC jackets… those are the clothes to kill and to kill for. ‘Cocktail dress’ sounds pretentiously, but according to Ford it’s a timeless go-to piece for every evening event. Whether in black velvet and with over-sized shoulder-pads or as a kimono hybrid, the designer goes burning hot this season with lenghts and silhouettes.

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki.