A collection I can wholeheartedly call this season’s standout favorite: Haider Ackermann’s Tom Ford, now in his second season. His debut last March electrified the industry – this time, he doubled the voltage. It was white-hot, feral-level good. The sensuality, the technique, the cuts, the sheer aura of seduction… and yet, it all felt otherworldly, as if an alien civilization had landed in the midst of Paris Fashion Week. Honestly, I want to be abducted.

There wasn’t a single filler in this collection – only killers: decadent robe-coats, razor-sharp tailoring, and flawless eveningwear in the most sublime shades of cobalt, orange, and emerald. What struck me most was how brilliantly Haider acknowledged Tom Ford’s legacy without ever being literal: a black leather suit, a languid beige column dress, jockstraps peeking from beneath trousers, plunging necklines – intoxicating in the best possible way.

And then came the unmistakable Haider touch: one male model in an ivory sweater tied around his neck like a scarf (just as the designer himself wears), paired with a matching oversized shirt, tailored wide-leg pants, and thong-thin flip-flops. The collision of Ackermann and Ford feels like one of the greatest gifts fashion has ever received.

ED’s SELECTION:

TOM FORD Eva D’orsay Satin Pumps

TOM FORD Asymmetric Crepe-jersey Gown

TOM FORD Sequin-embellished Wool-blend Blazer

TOM FORD Belted Draped Silk-satin Maxi Skirt

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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