Bologna’s Addresses

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I first wrote about Bologna, the city itself, separately right here. But it wouldn’t be me if I omitted the ‘guide’ part… so, treat yourself this Monday afternoon with the five addresses from the hometown of Bolognese sauce. And take a pen to write down those places, just in case you’re planning your August trip there.

Drogheria Della Rosa

In my humble opinion, that’s the best restaurant in Bologna. Located in a former pharmacy, the food here is quintessentially Italian and feels like made by your grandma from Bologna whose existence was unknown to you for all these years. Yes, it’s that good. It’s highly recommended to make a reservation.

Via Cartoleria 10

L’Inde Le Palais Donna & Uomo

Céline, Gucci, Dries Van Noten and Magda Butrym in the fanciest, palazzo-like interiors. Very lovely customer care. And a truly unique selection of womenswear and menswear, which was quite unexpected – most luxury multibrands in Italy sell precisely the SAME stuff, from the same labels. Here you can notice the presence of a risk-taking buyer.

 Via de’ Foscherari 19/C and Via de’ Musei 6

Camera Con Vista

Although the opulent interior with Roman statues and few chandeliers might suggest old, good Italian cuisine, Camera Con Vista surprises with its signature, Asian additions to nearly every dish. If you feel like you want to slightly change the culinary repertoire, make sure to try this place out. Book in advance.

Via Santo Stefano 14/2a

Ratti & Folli Follie

That’s another luxury multibrand in Bologna, with an equally charming selection of brands – Simone Rocha and Calvin Klein are here, just to name a few. Fashion in Bologna loves a major interior. While the menswear part, Ratti, is cosmic-industrial, women’s Folli Follie is a multi-storey, XXL wardrobe where it’s easy to get lost while looking for a Balenciaga goodie (that’s probably on a heavy discount, by the way).

Via Clavature 15

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Casa Minghetti

Groovy spot for an evening appetizer and drink. But rather a pre-spot to go just before dinner.

Piazza Minghetti, 1A

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That’s the last post regarding my road trip to Italy. See the newly updated ‘Places‘ page to find all of my beloved addresses in Genoa, Portofino, Parma and Bologna!

Bologna – Not Just Bolognese

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Before, when I heard about Bologna, I instantly thought about food. Maybe because Bologna’s cuisine is said to be the best in the entire Europe – and not just because of the Bolognese sauce (by the way, the locals don’t use that name – they call it simply ‘pasta with ragu’). But visiting Bologna made me realise how beautiful this city is, not just from the taste buds’ aspect. The old city centre is filled with remains of its medieval history: countless towers, palaces, churches and brick facades. The San Petronio Church is especially stunning, with its marble floors and neck-breaking ceiling heights. Make sure to visit Palazzo dell’Archiginnasio, contructed back in 1563. There, you will find the all-wooden Teatro Anatomico, so the place where the human corpses were dissected in front of the medical students for educational matters the first time in history (note that Bologna is the city of some of the oldest universities in the world). In the same building, there’s the mind-blowing library, mostly closed for the tourists. But still, the view of it from behind the see-through doors is quite something. Also, we went to Pinacoteca Nazionale, the ‘richest’ museum in Bologna – but it was quite a disappointment. It served as a good starting point for the long walk back to the centre. When you’re in Bologna, take your time to ‘get lost’ in the streets of this magnificent, red city – or else you won’t really feel it

I will post my favourite addresses in Bologna soon!

All photos by Edward Kanarecki.

Parma, Love You.

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Although prosperous cities in the Northern part of Italy are nothing of a surprise, there’s probably no other place like Parma that’s so devoted to the pleasures of life. Well, no wonder why – it’s the city of ham (yes, that Parma ham!) and Parmesan cheese. There’s no possible way that anyone can feel sad in here, in the heaven of Italian cuisine.

This refined city has lots of chic caffes and elegant restaurants, not speaking of the very well curated boutiques and vintage stores (filled with 70s Pucci, for example). The historic city centre isn’t too big, and you can virtually grasp it in one day. Start from Piazza del Duomo, where the cathedral from 11th century is located. Take a moment to look at all those impressive frescoes, painted by Correggio back in the past. Just a few metres from the cathedral there’s also the equally precious baptistery, fully built from orange-y marble brought straight from Verona. After you finish admiring the piazza, go straight to Palazzo dell Pilotta (unless you stop for a heaven ice coffee or some local pastry on the way…). The colossal building holds three institutions: the library, the archeological museum and the Teatro Farnese. All of them are worth seeing, but to be honest, the last one is the most astounding experience. It’s a theatre constructed totally out of wood, from 1617. Even though it’s no longer in use, a walk around the incredibly looking stage and auditorium feels as great as seeing a delightful spectacle. Note the fantastically opulent molding and ornaments… I didn’t expect Parma to be that truly gorgeous. It’s a must-see if you ask me, but also, a smart place to stay for a few nights so that you can easily drive to other places in the vicinity.

P.s. I will post my favourite addresses in Parma soon, but in the meantime – did you see the newly updated ‘Places’ page?

All photos by Edward Kanarecki.

A Day in Portofino

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In the past, it used to be a romantic, silent fishing village. Still, even though Portofino is what it is today – an exclusive, expensive resort town filled with fancy shops (Demna Gvasalia’s Balenciaga doesn’t really match the local ‘Italian prettiness’, to be honest), yachts, elegant coffee shops and restaurants that are simply overcrowded with tourists (didn’t see Giorgio Armani or Rihanna in any, ha…) – it looks like a postcard. Specifically, a postcard you wouldn’t mind finding in your post! But if you find yourself slightly bored with the cliché part of Portofino, so the pedestrian area near the sea, don’t hesitate to go up the beautiful pine forest. Oh, and you don’t want to miss the last ferry to Santa Margherita Ligure – or else you go bankrupt, staying at Splendido Hotel for the night. Note: it’s very difficult to get to Portofino by car.

All photos by Edward Kanarecki.