Bologna – Not Just Bolognese

August 4, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

Before, when I heard about Bologna, I instantly thought about food. Maybe because Bologna’s cuisine is said to be the best in the entire Europe – and not just because of the Bolognese sauce (by the way, the locals don’t use that name – they call it simply ‘pasta with ragu’). But visiting Bologna made me realise how beautiful this city is, not just from the taste buds’ aspect. The old city centre is filled with remains of its medieval history: countless towers, palaces, churches and brick facades. The San Petronio Church is especially stunning, with its marble floors and neck-breaking ceiling heights. Make sure to visit Palazzo dell’Archiginnasio, contructed back in 1563. There, you will find the all-wooden Teatro Anatomico, so the place where the human corpses were dissected in front of the medical students for educational matters the first time in history (note that Bologna is the city of some of the oldest universities in the world). In the same building, there’s the mind-blowing library, mostly closed for the tourists. But still, the view of it from behind the see-through doors is quite something. Also, we went to Pinacoteca Nazionale, the ‘richest’ museum in Bologna – but it was quite a disappointment. It served as a good starting point for the long walk back to the centre. When you’re in Bologna, take your time to ‘get lost’ in the streets of this magnificent, red city – or else you won’t really feel it

I will post my favourite addresses in Bologna soon!

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All photos by Edward Kanarecki.

Parma, Love You.

August 2, 2018August 4, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

Although prosperous cities in the Northern part of Italy are nothing of a surprise, there’s probably no other place like Parma that’s so devoted to the pleasures of life. Well, no wonder why – it’s the city of ham (yes, that Parma ham!) and Parmesan cheese. There’s no possible way that anyone can feel sad in here, in the heaven of Italian cuisine.

This refined city has lots of chic caffes and elegant restaurants, not speaking of the very well curated boutiques and vintage stores (filled with 70s Pucci, for example). The historic city centre isn’t too big, and you can virtually grasp it in one day. Start from Piazza del Duomo, where the cathedral from 11th century is located. Take a moment to look at all those impressive frescoes, painted by Correggio back in the past. Just a few metres from the cathedral there’s also the equally precious baptistery, fully built from orange-y marble brought straight from Verona. After you finish admiring the piazza, go straight to Palazzo dell Pilotta (unless you stop for a heaven ice coffee or some local pastry on the way…). The colossal building holds three institutions: the library, the archeological museum and the Teatro Farnese. All of them are worth seeing, but to be honest, the last one is the most astounding experience. It’s a theatre constructed totally out of wood, from 1617. Even though it’s no longer in use, a walk around the incredibly looking stage and auditorium feels as great as seeing a delightful spectacle. Note the fantastically opulent molding and ornaments… I didn’t expect Parma to be that truly gorgeous. It’s a must-see if you ask me, but also, a smart place to stay for a few nights so that you can easily drive to other places in the vicinity.

P.s. I will post my favourite addresses in Parma soon, but in the meantime – did you see the newly updated ‘Places’ page?

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All photos by Edward Kanarecki.

A Day in Portofino

July 31, 2018July 31, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

In the past, it used to be a romantic, silent fishing village. Still, even though Portofino is what it is today – an exclusive, expensive resort town filled with fancy shops (Demna Gvasalia’s Balenciaga doesn’t really match the local ‘Italian prettiness’, to be honest), yachts, elegant coffee shops and restaurants that are simply overcrowded with tourists (didn’t see Giorgio Armani or Rihanna in any, ha…) – it looks like a postcard. Specifically, a postcard you wouldn’t mind finding in your post! But if you find yourself slightly bored with the cliché part of Portofino, so the pedestrian area near the sea, don’t hesitate to go up the beautiful pine forest. Oh, and you don’t want to miss the last ferry to Santa Margherita Ligure – or else you go bankrupt, staying at Splendido Hotel for the night. Note: it’s very difficult to get to Portofino by car.

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All photos by Edward Kanarecki.

Galleria Mazzini in Genoa

July 27, 2018July 29, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

If you love vintage (especially proper, opulent, slightly kitschy Italian vintage), you’ve got to visit Galleria Mazzini in Genoa. This historical passage, that as well holds a number of coffee shops and boutiques, is also where all the Genoan antique specialists sell their finds. From Italian furniture classics from the 60s and century old posters to colourful old school car toys and jet-set era Gucci bags, this place has some true treasures. The prices are high, but the guys here are ready to bargain. Want more on Genoa? Click here.

Galleria Giuseppe Mazzini / Genoa

Photos by Edward Kanarecki.

When in Genoa

July 25, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

Once called the ‘mistress of the sea’ due to its port, today Genoa (also read as Genova) isn’t that much in favour, especially if speaking of tourists. There’s no sense in planning your walk around the historic centre of the city. The streets and narrow caruggi twine and tangle without much logic, so it’s better to go with the flow (but remember not to get too lost – it’s better to stay in the main part of the city, since Genoa in general is infamous for being one of the least safe places in Italy). The local roughness and state of dilapidated, close-to-ruin buildings might repel at the beginning, but you will surely feel the charm on the second day of your stay. Genoa reminds you that Italy isn’t that polished after all, and the laundry getting dried on the streets isn’t a postcard cliché, but reality. What’s definitely worth visiting is Cattedrale di San Lorenzo (which is somewhere between Gothic and Baroque style) that stores an underground treasury. Still, Genoa’s streets intrigued me the most. At some moments they get totally dark, even in the day-time. Not only because they are narrow; the townhouses are surprisingly tall as well. The effect is highly cinematic. Also note all the small food markets. For coffee, go to the chic Caffè Degli Specchi that has the best ice coffee, while for small shopping try Aspesi (best ‘Made in Italy’ shirts in very affordable prices) and the vintage market situated at Galleria Mazzini (next post is coming up on that magical place!). But in the end, even though every guide seems to hate Genoa, we had great time here. We weren’t robbed or anything like that!

A hint: if you’re travelling in a big car, Genoa might be a hard nut to crack. Parking here is a nightmare, and no guide will tell you this…

More of my addresses from Genoa are right here.