The Choice – Céline SS18

A few days ago I asked you on my Instagram stories to pick one of your favourite collections ever and I would make a collage with it. Here’s Here’s @kenzasafsaf’s choice: Phoebe Philo‘s sublime, forever desirable, swan song collection for Céline. Take a look back at it here.

More of your choices are coming in the following days! If you missed the game, you can still write me your favourite collection and I will do the work. Got plenty of time. Culture isn’t cancelled, fashion isn’t cancelled!

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Tisci’s Take. Burberry SS19


London fashion week didn’t see a big debut for a while. But was it worth the wait? Riccardo Tisci at Burberry seemed to be an unlikely choice from the beginning. The brand’s logo and identity changes felt vague and predictable. A post-show, 24 hours only merch shopping via Instagram had to have everyone like ‘wow’, but I guess no one really bothered to buy anything. You might think that 134 looks in a collection have to speak loud and clear about the designer’s vision. That’s what I thought before. Well, maybe that number of looks tried to say a word or two, but in overall it felt like Tisci wanted to seize too much and mention too many things at a time in his first collection for this historic, British brand. The first part of the collection referred to Burberry’s heritage – trench coats, Burbs checks and silk foulards – and played with the notion of conservative, British middle class from the Thatcher era. If Riccardo developed that a bit further and kept the show in these 50 outfits, that might have been a good shot . But then, a dozen of identical menswear looks appeared, aesthetically closer to Prada and 90s Helmut Lang than Burberry. Another ton of womenswear (this time related to the punk movement, unfortunately looking shallow, preppy and… tired) and a portion of men’s unamusing streetwear (think sweatshirts and prints that are very close to Riccardo’s work at Givenchy – this time, however, we’ve got creepy, Victorian families photo instead of Catholic iconography) appeared on the runway.  In the end, we had this quite stiff line-up of ladies’ eveningwear. I liked Christopher Bailey’s last seasons at Burberry, but I never really looked at his collections again. Tisci’s debut could have been more focused and gripping, that’s sure, but let’s give him time. And please, narrow down that scope!


Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

SACAI, the Shooting Star.

zdjęcie 1Chitose Abe’s label Sacai is one of those brands that existed under the radar, quietly getting on things and evolving with every season! 14 years to be precise to erupt into fashion world with all these hot events, grand changes and new trends making each other even more different. But no, Sacai is not a label of type that likes to be ugly nor difficult to wear- Karl Lagerfeld said, that this Fall his favourite label is definetly Sacai. No wonder why- Sacai, as everything Japanese, is artistic (like Comme des Garcons and Junya Watanabe) but at the same time, it’s certainly for wearing, and not hanging in the wardrobe! It’s lace biker jackets from SS13 were bestsellers last season at Colette and Montaigne Market. This label is is so hot right now, it has even a new, big section at Dover Street Market in London! 6a00d83451f3fc69e2017c374cff06970b-800wi6a00d83451f3fc69e2017d3c8d59c6970c-800wi1307_sacai6a00d83451f3fc69e2017d417c3526970c-800wi6a00d83451f3fc69e2017c374d04e6970b-800wizdjęcie 4_ARC0104.450x675sacai-ss13-2The AW13 collection of that amazing Japanese label is all about hybradized mash-ups that just don’t get boring in case of Sacai. “This was another outstanding outing for the Japanese designer, one that once more demonstrated how sensitive she is to the conceptual-commercial mix. Her trick this season was to choose iconic—predictable, even—Fall staples and spin them into something genuinely desirable. Trenchcoats, English hunting suits, skiwear, and biker jackets were the pieces in question. In Abe’s hands, they looked both familiar and surprising.” Wrote Nicole Phelps about the collection. And what’s interesting, Chitose was working and studying at Junya Watanabe studio- it kind of feels a bit Watanabe in this collection, isn’t it? One is for sure- Sacai is a hit of the moment!zdjęcie 2Sacai - Paris March 20136a00d83451f3fc69e2017d417c19bd970c-800wiSTZ21SACAI3_356979k_ARC0104.450x6756a00d83451f3fc69e2017c374d104d970b-800wizdjęcie 3sacai-ss13-1Sacai - Paris March 20136a00d83451f3fc69e2017d417c3b10970c-800wi_ARC0283.450x675