Jun Takahashi is the designer behind one of the most avant-garde brand originating from Japan – Undercover. Every collection delivered by him is a separate story, subverting the reality of ready-to-wear into something much more sophisticated, nearly magical. For spring-summer 2017, Jun investigated the world of jazz, his favourite music genre. However, it’s not the mood of Chicago musical and sultry-hot “And All That Jazz” song! Saxophones were printed in an old-fashioned, trompe l’oeil-style on t-shirts and wide pants, while the last, spectacular looks were three leather outfits kept in a collage-like patchwork of drums, keyboards and trumpets. A new, fresh glance at a ‘dandy’ – worth considering next spring.
Ageing is beautiful, and Jun Takahashi of Undercover reminds the industry about that. “Making relaxwear for all ages” was the main concept behind this avant-garde outing, filled with printed pajamas, cocooning knitwear (the pastel blue cardigan striped coat had this lovely, spongy texture!) and layered outerwear. The models’ age range varied, and such silver-haired beauties as Hannelore Knuts appeared in the show, wearing a white crown of thorns – but not with a religious message, so no doubts. It was rather connected to the imaginary, ethereal queens of forests which also had dried hydrangeas in their hair. Another clue of the forest life inspiration? Gigantic, felt wool ants and bees carried like stoles by the Undercover women. Takahashi goes against the flow, and he has a talent of doing what he does best – not looking at other designers’ work.
The gold corset jacket with a voluminous, ballerina skirt… mesmerising.