Woman

Perfect Conditions. Loro Piana SS27

| Design & Culture by Ed

Today I woke up with a realization: I really don’t want late fall (the rainy part of it that lies ahead after the very comforting yet unreliable gossamer), and winter? I’m signing out. But I’m very much here for the not-too-serious layering season that, sadly, at least in Poland, lasts barely two weeks sometime in October and then briefly reappears in April.

Oh, how I would love to wear Loro Piana’s spring-summer 2027 collection during those couple days of just perfect weather, neither hot or cold. READ THE FULL TEXT HERE.

ED’s SELECTION:


Loro Piana André Herringbone Linen Shirt



Loro Piana Bale Small Leather And Canvas-trimmed Nubuck Tote



Loro Piana Cashmere Jumpsuit



Loro Piana Leather-trimmed Cashmere Jacket



Loro Piana Open-knit Silk Top



Loro Piana Venice Embroidered Cashmere-blend Flannel Slippers



Loro Piana Pleated Pinstriped Wool And Cashmere-blend Wide-leg Pants



Loro Piana Fobello Cashmere Sweater



Loro Piana Checked Wool And Cashmere-blend Flannel Shirt



Loro Piana Jekel Leather-trimmed Shearling-lined Suede Jacket

All collages by Edward Kanarecki.

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Phoebe Philo Collection F

| Design & Culture by Ed

It’s become a tradition: Phoebe Philo releases her lookbook about a week after fashion month ends. And every time she drops a new collection, she further underscores just how out of touch with reality many designers are, especially those showing in Paris. READ MY FULL REVIEW HERE.

All collages by Edward Kanarecki.

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Ring A Bell. Jean Paul Gaultier SS27

| Design & Culture by Ed

Jean Paul Gaultier was bonkers. A year in, it’s safe to say that Duran Lantink’s appointment as creative director was the best decision the brand could have made – precisely because it was also the riskiest. Of course, if you look at his spring-summer 2027 collection from a “pragmatic” point of view, it’s very easy to dismiss. But remind yourself that fashion can, after all, be fun – and that for designers like Gaultier, Sonia Rykiel and Franco Moschino, this was practically a mantra – and suddenly what Lantink is doing feels brilliant.

There are no in-your-face references to Jean Paul’s archives. Instead, Lantink seems to have understood a Jean Paul way of thinking – if only Sean McGirr had found a similar pattern at McQueen. There are cheeky nods to Holland, Lantink’s native country, but also to Tyrol and Bavaria: dresses covered in jingling bells, folk-inspired patterns, white milkmaid nightgowns. And then, all of a sudden, seriously mundane clothes for getting your hands dirty, like a parka jacket. After this collection, you just want to book a trip somewhere in the mountains. And never come back.

All collages by Edward Kanarecki.

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Ghesquièrenaissance. Louis Vuitton SS27

| Design & Culture by Ed

It’s weirdly fascinating to see Nicolas Ghesquière return to minimalism – even if its lines are distinctly Belle Époque. His Louis Vuitton collection, closing Paris Fashion Week, ended up being one of my favorites of the season. The way he juxtaposed a very, very simple-looking camel-hued biker jacket with not-quite-slip dresses, or played with the breeziness of couture windbreakers, somehow made it all feel like a convincing wardrobe for today. It made me think warmly of his golden Balenciaga days. “Ergonomic” is the word that comes to mind, as well as “the impression of minimalism” – something Ghesquière has always been particularly good at playing with in the past. It’s very exciting to see the designer return with a line-up so urgent yet also light, which is always the most difficult thing to achieve. (Jonathan Anderson, for instance, failed to deliver that lightness at Dior this season.) Ghesquièrenaissance is upon us.

Boutique-ness. Courrèges SS27

| Design & Culture by Ed

I actually really liked Drew Henry’s debut at Courrèges. This is possibly one of the most difficult houses to make sense of in the 21st century. His predecessors either went blindly too space-age or focused solely on the vinyl jacket. Nicolas Di Felice seemed to have the vision, but I always thought the brand wouldn’t mind a little more warmth.

Henry, a Phoebe Philo alum, approached it with a certain boutique-ness, which is a rarity in Paris lately, where everything must be bigger and louder. It feels like something you would look for in a small shop somewhere in France, where the owner is named Françoise or Francine, has the best style in the world, and however hard you try, you will never dress like her (but you can try!).

There were very chic-looking colour-block jackets and pea coats in a 1960s cut that wasn’t too on-the-nose; an otherwise simple look of a black T-shirt and yellow pants sharpened with a pair of driving gloves; a quirky little hat here and there. The male models wearing the signature André Courrèges A-line mini dresses? It felt like a spontaneous, not-overthought decision that just radically worked. Something is germinating in this house again. Just please give it time to bud.

All collages by Edward Kanarecki.

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