Slouchy, Relaxed. Rodebjer SS20

August 9, 2019 | Design & Culture by Ed

“Slouchy silhouettes touching the earth” – this is how the spring-summer 2020 clothes were described in Rodebjer‘s show-note. I would also add they create a perfect wardrobe for a modern-day jet-set woman, who enjoys her weekends were the sun is out – Marrakech, Lisbon, Malibu. Carin Rodebjer showed her designs on a runway for the first time in several seasons. It was a reminder that her clothes – typically textural, usually fluid, and always balanced between practical and adventurous – look best in motion. The floor-sweeping fringes and draped dresses shades of ochre and curcuma are my highlights. One can’t help noticing some old Céline inspirations, which is actually good. Starving Philophiles, please see Rodebjer next season.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Fantasy. Helmstedt SS20

August 7, 2019 | Design & Culture by Ed

Hello Copenhagen! The Danish capital’s fashion week started with an actual fantasy. I wrote about Emilie Helmstedt‘s brand not a while ago, so I was really excited to see what she’s up to for spring-summer 2020. In a surreal venue filled with papier mache XXL toadstools and mossy hills, a parade of forest fairies took a stroll to show off their gorgeous dresses and berry-picking-ready outfits. Whether we’re speaking about the floor-sweeping silk gown in purple or one of those frocks in the most adorable strawberry print, next season, according to Helmstedt, is all about fields, nature and gardening. And maybe a bit of magic, too – there’s something whimsy-witchy about this collection. But not in Ari Aster’s Midsommar way, though!

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Colville, The Creative Encounter

August 5, 2019 | Design & Culture by Ed

August is the moment in fashion to discover brands, or at least, refresh your memory on names you haven’t looked at for a while. Colville isn’t this new on the block, but honestly I haven’t had a look at the label since its debut more a year ago. And I’ve got to tell you one thing: it’s doing more than fine. Co-founded by Molly Molloy, Kristin Forss and Lucinda Chambers (whose Instagram-diary is my must-follow), the London-based brand is independent, off-kilter and too cool for the fashion industry. Colville is the creative encounter between three different minds and three personal points of view. A sum, not a mix. The irregular and the imperfect put-together are integral to the outcome: a collection that’s a sum of pieces, that is eclectic and idiosyncratic. Those are clothes to be worn, cherished, mixed and matched. Clothes that are bold and brave, considered and careful, sensitive and detailed. Clothes that are real: addends to a lasting discourse. As the brand’s manifesto says, Colville pieces can be assembled, disassembled, reassembled, following individual whims. It’s about putting the unexpected together. Not one way to wear it, but as many as there are viewpoints. The autumn-winter 2019 collection is just that: a play with proportions, shapes, prints. Fitting together like an imperfect jigsaw puzzle: clashing colors, unlikely partnerships of textures, a touch of craft, tailoring and flou. From the nomad-kind of layers and winter shawls to grungy-meets-hippie knits and florals, you want to have those garments and make them your reality.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

The Joy of Helmstedt

July 29, 2019 | Design & Culture by Ed

Copenhagen Fashion Week is just around the corner (starting the 6th of August), so here’s a reason to look at one of the most exciting talents coming from the Danish capital. Emilie Helmstedt’s universe is colorful and playful. The concept is rather simple: refining luxurious loungewear and bringing it out of the bedroom. But the effect is more than fantastic. Helmstedt‘s collections are all about silhouettes that are easy to wear, but get you intrigued with their playful prints and colour palette. The garments, always voluminous and relaxed, are a signature in Helmstedt’s world, and with detailing from 30s and 50s loungewear, comfort is key whether you wear it to bed or to a party. The happiness that colors can bring to everyday life works almost like a mantra to the brand’s identity – which is why “charmful” is one of the first words that comes to mind, when you see the textiles, which Emilie creates and produces herself.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Beautiful Silence. Azzedine Alaïa Resort 2020

July 25, 2019December 1, 2019 | Design & Culture by Ed

The maison of Azzedine Alaïa doesn’t shock – which, surprisingly, is a good thing. Since Alaïa passed away, the brand decided not to desperately seek an outside designer who would turn the house upside down. Instead, the label is lead by the studio, which knows the Alaïa craft like no other. For resort 2020, which got released yesterday, we see precise, not-over-the-top, rather minimal garments that look simple in cut, but are the peak of tailoring mastership in fact. I mean, where else will you find a military-inspired jacket which looks this chic? The dresses, forever flattering to the body, are Alaïa classics that never get boring. Also, I really love the high-rise trousers styled with boyish, black shoes. The look-book, shot by Karim Sadli in Alaïa’s 3 Rooms apartments in Le Marais district (Paris’ best kept secret for the fashion insiders when fashion weeks come) is more than pleasing.