Woman

On Display. Simone Rocha SS26

| Design & Culture by Ed

“It’s this slightly teenage, debutante feeling – when you’re on display and don’t really want to be there,” said Simone Rocha of her spring–summer 2026 collection. This season, the London-based designer marks 15 years of independent business, one deeply rooted in a women-centered vision.

Being “on display” carries many meanings for a contemporary fashion designer – especially a female one – and Rocha channeled that tension with a line-up that was at once vulnerable and resilient. Crinolined dresses swayed with a wonky gait; panniered skirts slouched loose and undone; draped tops tucked with flowers exuded an arty chaos. A black menswear suit, its jacket fitted with a built-in bouquet sash, struck a particularly cool note, amplified by the model’s crossed hands.

And the pillow clutches? Rocha’s eternal girl may drift through a dreamscape, but she is no Princess and the Pea.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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About Femininity. Colleen Allen SS26

| Design & Culture by Ed

I’ve been following Colleen Allen’s work since her debut, and it’s thrilling to see her collections strengthen season after season. Allen knows exactly who her woman is, and she designs with that archetype in mind. She’s poised and elegant, but with a touch of witchy allure – and an affinity for a peekaboo, négligé moment. Lace-trimmed bralettes and maxi skirts from the spring collection played with frivolous flashes of skin, while ecclesiastical silk cloaks added a sense of regality. Allen’s garments, though, are best appreciated in motion: her dresses dissolve into airy mists that wrap around the body. As she continues to develop her business, I’d love to see her step onto the runway.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Lady, Lady, Lady. Tory Burch SS26

| Design & Culture by Ed

Once again, Tory Burch saves New York Fashion Week. The designer – who over the past few years has undergone a creative renaissance, dubbed by some as a “Tory-ssance” – examines the meaning of femininity through a beautifully balanced lens that merges past and present.

Her spring-summer 2026 collection is decidedly simpler and less “styled” than her previous outing, making room for alluring 1920s-inspired dresses, airy pleated skirts reminiscent of the 1950s, and 1980s-filtered balloon pants. In Burch’s hands, these looks never read as vintage pastiche but as pieces ready to be worn by women of now. Special mention goes to the purposefully faded wallpaper print, beautifully executed in a charming satin lilac pencil skirt. The overall feeling of the collection brought to my mind Marco Zanini’s glory days at Rochas, where he envisioned modern-day dames through a highly feminine, eclectic, yet undeniably cool perspective. Through her current work, Burch redefines the term “ladylike” by stripping away its conservative connotations – and that’s what I find most compelling about it.

ED’s SELECTION:

Tory Burch Printed Cotton-blend Poplin Midi Dress


Tory Burch Grosgrain-trimmed Broderie Anglaise Cotton-voile Tunic


Tory Burch Cotton-blend Pants


Tory Burch Mary Jane Leather Ballet Flats

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Socialite. Altuzarra SS26

| Design & Culture by Ed

Altuzarra’s (very autumnal) spring–summer 2026 collection centered on charming details, executed in a surreal, trompe-l’œil manner. A stole appeared as an illustration of bird wings encircling the neckline; a blazer’s pockets were appliquéd with black and red feathers, accentuating the waist and hips; dresses were not printed but patched with florals. Yet nothing about these wardrobe enhancements felt overly on the nose. The line-up is one that New York’s Swans – socialites like C.Z. Guest or Lee Radziwill – would surely embrace for its deft balance of day-to-evening sophistication. Balloon pants, Joseph Altuzarra’s recurring obsession, returned better than ever. For several seasons now, the designer has been channeling an elegance that feels both authentic and substantial.

ED’s SELECTION:

Altuzarra Dash Pleated Cotton-twill Barrel-leg Pants


Altuzarra Maury Shearling Jacket


Altuzarra Lennon Strapless Ribbed-knit Bustier Top


Altuzarra Drina Stretch-velvet Midi Dress


Altuzarra Origami Mini Fringed Suede Shoulder Bag

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Fresh Air. Proenza Schouler SS26

| Design & Culture by Ed

The first debut – out of more than a dozen still ahead – is now behind us. Well, sort of. Rachel Scott, founder of Diotima, just stepped into Proenza Schouler, presenting her first dialogue with the brand’s design team. I have to admit, I was pleasantly surprised by what I saw. Although Scott’s contribution to this collection must have been rather brief, she managed to inject more vitality into Proenza than Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough did in the past decade. The founders and former creative directors of the once-quintessentially-New-York-cool label struggled for years to revive their brainchild. Instead, they leaned too heavily on the aesthetics of The Row and Bottega Veneta, while borrowing too many cues from Helmut Lang and Phoebe Philo. The result: Proenza Schouler devolved into a generically minimal brand, catering to women who would just as soon shop with the Olsens.

Scott, however, brought a breath of fresh air in the very first moments of the spring–summer 2026 presentation. What struck me most were the leather laser-cut pieces – especially a t-shirt styled with ochre briefs and mint-green, over-the-knee boots crafted from a sheer, organza-like material. The floral prints exploded like vibrant fireworks, while a bright orange turtleneck sweater radiated cool.

In some ways, you could still catch glimpses of the old Proenza Schouler – colorful, bold, and rooted in an experimental play with layers and textures. I only wish the collection felt more fully resolved; but then again, this wasn’t a true debut, more of a first taste of what’s still to come.

One thing is certain: Scott needs to define exactly who the Proenza Schouler woman is.

ED’s SELECTION:

Proenza Schouler Ramona Belted Suede Coat


Proenza Schouler Track Paneled Suede Sneakers


Proenza Schouler Yves Asymmetric Fringed Knitted Top


Proenza Schouler Yves Asymmetric Fringed Striped Knitted Maxi Skirt

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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