She Knows. Maryam Nassir Zadeh AW25

August 9, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

Maryam Nassir Zadeh has just released her autumn–winter 2025 lookbook, and it instantly makes you start thinking about September dressing and all its layering-perfect charms. Maryam is one of those instinctive designers who effortlessly create not fleeting trends, but new “ways” of dressing. The New York–based designer offers pieces as simple yet utterly chic as a mini fur scarf – designed for both women and men – tied loosely around the neck and styled nonchalantly with oversized suits or bubblegum-pink blousons. There’s a lot of tying in this collection: from a cummerbund-shaped, bi-color belt cinched over pleated trousers to a strapped bonnet – its silhouette a nostalgic nod to 1920s headwear – Nassir Zadeh treats accessories as objects to play with. Even the fringed-belt-slash-skirt can be worn with ease beneath a teddy-bear jacket and over a pair of warm tights. She just knows.

GET THE LOOK:

Pologeorgis Lamb Shearling Fur Scarf

TOTEME Faux Fur Scarf

Saint Laurent Ribbon Faux Fur Scarf

Gorski Select Lamb Pull-Through Scarf

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Phoebe Philo Collection D

July 23, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

I was just about to (finally) start writing my Venice guide when I saw a new email in my inbox: Collection D. This could only mean one thing – Phoebe Philo had dropped the preview of her new collection on a random Tuesday, off-schedule, without warning. Sometimes, Mercury retrograde brings good things too.

Spontaneous things are the best things. Whether it’s travel, making art, or cooking, letting yourself act on an untamed impulse often delivers (and rewards with) the most satisfaction. It seems to me that Philo has relearned how to let herself go. Her latest collection marks a sharp departure from the strictness and control that defined her earlier namesake offerings. Even the lookbook’s warm lighting and the models’ relaxed poses signal a vibe shift, a mood swing into… joy. READ MY FULL REVIEW HERE.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Sleeping Beauties. Valentino Resort 2026

July 20, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

There are days when all you want is to lounge around and feel like Lana Del Rey in her “Honeymoon” era. Dreamy, otherworldly, a bit of a baddie. Alessandro Michele certainly had one of those moments while working on Valentino‘s resort 2026 collection, photographed on literal sleeping beauties. FYI: his vintage-inspired dresses not only look great on red carpets and concert stages, but also in bed.

The new collection sees Michele re-looking the codes straight out of Valentino Garavani’s archive: look 1 offered a ruched Valentino-red minidress, its bodice pleats gathered in frontal cutouts just as Garavani used to do. And the bow, another Garavani favorite, dotted everything from hems to heeled mules like a frivolous punctuation mark. On the decorative side, gobelin-like tapestries were crafted into boxy waistcoats trimmed with feathers and fringed micro shorts. Elsewhere Michele’s urge for embellishment was interrupted by slender and elegant evening gowns in plain soft pastels or classic black. Meanwhile, the menswear took cues from the style of Parisian students who took part in 1968 protests, a theme Michele often gravitates towards in his work. A child of the bourgeoisie, out in the streets, looking for love.

P.s. The Valentino clients should really take a look at Alessandro’s accessories, especially bags: he knows how to turn a heirloom from grandmother’s closet into a modern-day treasure. I’m absolutely obsessed with all the heavily-embroidered, fringed satchels.

ED’s SELECTION:

Valentino Garavani Nellcôte Fringed Embellished Suede Tote Bag

Valentino Garavani Fleur Lumineuse Necklace

Valentino Garavani Belted Ruffled Polka-dot Wool And Silk-blend Mini Dress

Valentino Garavani Tasseled Wool And Cashmere-blend Jacket

Valentino Garavani Bowow 45 Crystal-embellished Metallic Suede-trimmed Moiré Pumps

Valentino Garavani Panier De Fleurs Snake-effect Leather-trimmed Embroidered Raffia Tote

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Frivolous. Chloé Resort 2026

July 11, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

Chemena Kamali‘s Chloé has been vintage-inspired and infused with nostalgia since her debut collection, but it seems the designer is letting some more frivolity to her work. The Chloé girl is ultimately a fun girl: striding the streets of Paris in clogs (a reference to Phoebe Philo’s tenure at the brand), swirling and dancing in flou silks and floating dresses, looking like a nonchalant, mysterious character straight out of a Guy Bourdin photograph. Immersing herself in early ’80s movies, like Brian de Palma’s thriller “Dressed to Kill” and Bette Gordon’s “Variety”, Kamali isn’t exactly interested in the (very exhausted) notion of power-dressing, but rather blending the era’s seemingly-naïve femininity with its by-gone, chic attitude. Bold and quirky shades of cobalt and aquamarine go in pair with sensual lace trims and the irresistibly joyful flamingo motif. Oui, oui, oui.

ED’s SELECTION:

Chloé Lace-trimmed Silk-jacquard Camisole

Chloé Frayed High-rise Flared Jeans

Chloé Eve Leather Over-the-knee Boots

Chloé Bracelet Embellished Suede And Snake-effect Leather Shoulder Bag

Chloé Ruffled Floral-print Cotton-voile Mini Dress

Chloé Button-embellished Wool-blend Bouclé Mini Skirt

Chloé Kick Suede, Mesh And Leather High-top Sneakers

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Lived-In Quality. Aubero SS26

July 5, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

Ending the spring-summer 2026 menswear coverage on a high note: my top favorite (next to Prada) collection of the season coming from Aubero. Why I’m ranking it this high? It’s because it truly resonates with me, wardrobe-wise. The emerging American brand, lead by California-native Julian Louie, and its latest collection are beautifully autobiographical – yet somehow feel like home to an outsider who’s just getting to know Aubero. There’s a highly-appealing, lived-in quality to those over-sized flannel shirts, tailored “cargo” pants, and durable trench coats with delightful signs of patina. And there’s also something irresistibly sensual about the sleeveless, wrinkled-taffeta top-dress with confident open-back. Louie’s work is both nostalgic and forward-looking; his approach to material – “material festish” as he calls it, encapsulated in frayed antique textiles or scraps from past collections under mesh in one-of-a-kind coats or trousers – feels new, not Bode-ish as in case of many other new brands coming from the U.S.. Much of this collection relies on Louie’s mental souvenirs. The skirtlike wraps are a nod to the surfers he would see in Santa Cruz changing by their trucks, a clutched towel on their waists as they slipped out of wetsuits. I’m especially in awe of the all-white look consisting of a voluminous shirt and shorts with shiny finish topped over the lightweight pants. Worn with flip-flops, this look is both seductive and absolutely cool. Looking forward to more of Louie’s work.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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