Minimal Bouquet. Adam Lippes AW15

February 16, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Florals? For spring? Ground-breaking. But effective. And not for spring, in reality, but for winter. Adam Lippes, the master of modern sportswear from New York bloomed this season. Known for minimal silhouettes, Adam had a dose of printed flowers there and there – on the jackets and dresses, for example. But what seriously makes me excited for this collection are the sweaters, which are made from 10 different gauges of wool! That’s a lot. And the effect is as impressive as the numbers – this knitted piece of art seems to be so soft and fluffy that you just want to wear it and hug people around… what else caught my eye? The mink fur coat. Styled with those masculine trousers, this piece of clothing seems to be timeless and never out of fashion. You might think that the collection works totally on fashion basics – but in overall effect, it has much to say this winter.

Jane Eyre and Marimekko. Suno AW15

February 15, 2015February 15, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

What happens when Jane Eyre’s drama meets Ikea-like Marimekko floral prints? Then, Suno gives a tip. Helena Severin, which opened and closed the show, looked both awesome in the splitted skirt and brocade shirt-dress. Stripes went through beautifully embroidered roses while boots and socks nicely contrasted with over-sized silhouettes. The total favourite look is the one with the slim V-neck dress – attractive, but relaxed. And so Suno duo Erin Beatty and Max Osterweis must be congratulated on their main idea this season, not only for directing themselves to this interesting theme of two strictly different things, but also for attacking it with real vigour, and from unexpected angles.

Marc Jacobs Bunnies

July 4, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

It’s the second collaboration between Marc Jacobs and Playboy – the first one was all about Kate Moss printed t-shirts, and now it’s all about… bunnies! The sweatshirts kept in beautiful, AW14 colours, were created for the magazine’s 60th anniversary, and they got that huge bunny all over it… there is also a black t-shirt with sequin Playboy logo appliqued on and few other statement pieces. In love…

Blessed Again

May 27, 2014May 28, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

You never know what to think of the fantastic world created by the New Yorker named Thom Browne. Every collection is like a blessing… or irony that is a continuation of Browne’s American Horror Story never-ending episode. The fall 2014 collection started with 20’s vintage lamé that felt very Fellini-esque and a bit spiritual at the same time! Through out the collection, there was a feeling that Mr. Thom thought of Vatican splendour completed with hyper-rounded shapes and a gold splash used in make-up, gowns and coats. The extravagance of the church also re-arranged his old-time signatures: tweet jackets were not kept in classical grey, but brushed with silver; the shoulders that are usually transmutated by Thom, felt even more out of this world. Who knows what spirits surrounded the clothes- but surely, this ecclesiastical collection meant something more for the designer.

Classy Alaia

March 17, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

No fuss, more impact. As always out of schedule, but with friends and cozy atmosphere, Alaia presented his new collection, that is the first one after his recent Musee Galliera exhibition. And, it was totally Alaia. Nothing mind-breaking, but only, and only, class and elegance. Leather, pony hair, knitted body dresses, hooded gowns… and everything kept in toned colours. Mainly, Alaïa stuck to subtle silhouette updates, offering a roomier V-neck jumper and adding a rectangular fringe—occasionally knotted—to the edge of his skirts to give them a fresh swish in place of his typical flounce. A technique he dubbed “Religieuse” combined larger organ pleats with interior accordion pleats, and on a floor-grazing skirt or a truncated cape, the result was something akin to seeing Sister in the corner office. Indeed, with the recurrence of all those starched white poplin shirts, Alaïa further confirmed how his view of femininity has shifted since his heyday of cleavage-bearing necklines.