Party Girl. Victoria Beckham AW15

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Victoria Beckham which you knew during her first years of fashion career and Victoria Beckham that you know now are two, utterly different women. The one in the past wore super high heels and slim cocktail dresses; the one now prefers flats and comfortable, over-sized clothes in which she feels best. Beckham’s AW15 is just the right reflection of how she, herself, feels – easy, feeling happy with her kids and life. Slouchy knits, carrot-shaded midi skirts, wearable boots and cobalt coats are all, as she said, so beautiful, that you can wear them for a very long period of time. Also, Victoria experimented with textures and layers – the last two final looks had long, cut-out skirts which were definitely a new field of discovery for the designer. This collection easily proves, that Victoria Beckham really feels well in her own skin.

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Minimal Bouquet. Adam Lippes AW15

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Florals? For spring? Ground-breaking. But effective. And not for spring, in reality, but for winter. Adam Lippes, the master of modern sportswear from New York bloomed this season. Known for minimal silhouettes, Adam had a dose of printed flowers there and there – on the jackets and dresses, for example. But what seriously makes me excited for this collection are the sweaters, which are made from 10 different gauges of wool! That’s a lot. And the effect is as impressive as the numbers – this knitted piece of art seems to be so soft and fluffy that you just want to wear it and hug people around… what else caught my eye? The mink fur coat. Styled with those masculine trousers, this piece of clothing seems to be timeless and never out of fashion. You might think that the collection works totally on fashion basics – but in overall effect, it has much to say this winter.

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Jane Eyre and Marimekko. Suno AW15

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What happens when Jane Eyre’s drama meets Ikea-like Marimekko floral prints? Then, Suno gives a tip. Helena Severin, which opened and closed the show, looked both awesome in the splitted skirt and brocade shirt-dress. Stripes went through beautifully embroidered roses while boots and socks nicely contrasted with over-sized silhouettes. The total favourite look is the one with the slim V-neck dress – attractive, but relaxed. And so Suno duo Erin Beatty and Max Osterweis must be congratulated on their main idea this season, not only for directing themselves to this interesting theme of two strictly different things, but also for attacking it with real vigour, and from unexpected angles.

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Blessed Again

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You never know what to think of the fantastic world created by the New Yorker named Thom Browne. Every collection is like a blessing… or irony that is a continuation of Browne’s American Horror Story never-ending episode. The fall 2014 collection started with 20’s vintage lamé that felt very Fellini-esque and a bit spiritual at the same time! Through out the collection, there was a feeling that Mr. Thom thought of Vatican splendour completed with hyper-rounded shapes and a gold splash used in make-up, gowns and coats. The extravagance of the church also re-arranged his old-time signatures: tweet jackets were not kept in classical grey, but brushed with silver; the shoulders that are usually transmutated by Thom, felt even more out of this world. Who knows what spirits surrounded the clothes- but surely, this ecclesiastical collection meant something more for the designer.

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