Jun Takahashi’s dreamy AW14 collection for Undercover yesterday got really stuck in my mind. ‘Once upon a time, there was a Parisian dame, which wore crowns made by the Japanese hairstylist, Kamo. She was a queen, but in her mind. The dame wore bourgeois coats with Chinese porcelain print, long gowns in royal colours… She didn’t live in a queen’s palace, but in small apartment on Le Marais. Our dame never gave damn and always wore what she felt like, in very slouchy way.’ Jun Takahashi is the Asian version of Vivienne Westwood- he also has this punk attitude as she… And this Undercover collection is just damn awesome! 
Collections
Blanc au Blanc. Gareth Pugh AW14
Gareth Pugh is the designer that always shocks with his ethereal fashion. This time, he presented one of the best- totally made out from plastic, paper or fur- in one colour… White. Like a mind cleanse, the models wore white sculptural dresses, fur coats, piece of plastic for covering their boobs and Pharrell looking like hats… There was also the wind-it-up look, where the model had a huge key stuck to her back! It’s all a bit fairy-tale, a bit sci-fi (just see that silver polished look that is so dramatic!) and bit chaotic… Bug that’s why Pugh makes the most spectacular (not so about venue) collections coming from Paris.
Distingué. Rochas AW14
Aah, what a magnificent collection was that, Mr. Dell Acqua! The Italian designer of best-selling No.21 just got the old, a bit forgotten Parisian label into his hands- Rochas, which was designed before by Marco Zanini. The debut collection for fall 2014 is very elegant, chic, avant-garde… The yellow gloves matched with embroidered gowns, embellished lacquered shirts with signature Dell AcQua shiny details, coats looking like cardigans… And that gold dress was ALL- so flawless and chic. I must admit, that Alessandro, although Italian, got perfectly what the Parisian chic is- mysterious, elusive, a bit innocent. That collection, with Malgosia Bela at start and finale, surely got my heart- just like No.21, which seems to be more commercial.
Radieux. Dries Van Noten AW14
That was so… unexpected! Dries Van Noten showed the most bright, radiant and vibrant collection to date in his career! The AW14 was all about orange, orchid, flowerd, Hawaii, sequins, stripes… It was loud, it was fun. And those over-sized silhouttes. They are so Le Marais. There was also a interesting illusionist touch- geometrical coats in silver & black are a must-have. But- one question comes up- is still winter? Ok, furs. However, furs are on every summer collection of Prada. And it’s pretty hard to imagine all these island resort elements in winter… Who cares. It’s cool and surely will be a hit when hits the stores.
Séduisant. Christophe Lemaire AW14
Christophe Lemaire is not really known in the world, although he is the creative director of Hermes. But this is not the thing- when I think of Lemaire, I think of the seductive Hitchcock woman, who always look sensual and fragile. And these AW14 clothes are just it- simple, but sexy. Jumpers tied around necks, loosely worn coats, knitted dresses, dark colours. Not only woman can look attractive in these pieces- they seem to be great for a date, night out or even… home relax. Effortless. Wearable. Delicate.
Design & Culture by Ed 