Lady Grunge. No21 AW16

February 26, 2016August 5, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Milan Fashion Week has never been in such a good form, and it’s all because of the designers, who revive the major houses, or expand the smaller, eponymous ones. Alessandro Dell AcQua, the man behind N21, is an example of the latter, proving to be one of the most successful in his field – the first, marble-rich Milan flagship store has been opened at the beginning of the year, his signature bow-tie mules are called the “total best-sellers” by most of the retailers, while N21’s creative direction, which is often focused on feminine chic, becomes much more refined and aesthetically conscious.

Unexpectedly, the autumn-winter collection presented the defiant side of Alessandro’s style. Grunge already seems to be the topic on everybody’s lips this season, and his polished, lady-like sense reinterpreted the slightly burnt-out, Saint Laurent sucked attitude. Dell AcQua has visibly put extra effort on the texture play, mixing satin slip-dresses with sweaters in his outfits; the floral-print silk dresses styled with thick-knits reminded me of Marc Jacobs’ Perry Ellis grunge era, but in an Italian world of leoard-motived fur coats and rhinestones. It’s great to see tights play an important role in woman’s wardrobe, but rather as a stylish detail than an autumn necessity – the ones which walked the runway at N21 had floral embroideries, and the are too good to be true. It’s the next, triumphant season for Alessandro, and I sincerely hope he will continue to redefine feminine sensuality in his off-duty, edgy way.

I’ve Seen This Face Before. Gucci AW16

February 26, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

The old new identity implemented by Alessandro Michele for Gucci is well-known to all of us – and within the autumn-winter 2016 season, the designer has his first year as the creative director of the womenswear line behind. The “renaissance” mood Alessandro brings back to fashion, as I wrote here and here, deserves applause and praise. Noting that he has utterly revamped the pretentious sleek Italian empire into a brand, which considers Italian craftsmanship as priority, makes Michele’s warm softness more than a trend. It’s about his personal style, and his adoration to old, Italian paintings, antique rings and 70s / 80s attitude. The AW16 collection, in fact, isn’t a surprise – knowing the designer’s deeply rooted inspirations and eclectic aesthetics, you won’t see a totally different theme, coming out from nowhere, during his tenure. Even if this might lead to the Frida-Gianini-effect – a kind of unexcitement starts to accompany his shows, just like before, when his precedessor designed for Gucci. We’ve seen it all during Alessandro’s year – the Pompeian print skirts, pussy-bow dresses, GG buckle belts and those alta moda gowns. They delight the eye, indeed. Just like the crystal-embroidered bodices, inspired with 16th century costumes. But it lacks this loud “wow” everybody gasped last February.

Bistrot Giacomo

February 11, 2016February 11, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Bistrot Giacomo is Milan‘s best kept secret if talking of a soigné-mannered bistro / restaurant. The place is fully booked every evening – and not just because of romantically chic interior. The wooden shelves, which are literally heaved up with antique books; the burgundy sofas and cushions; walls with huge, old mirrors; the floors covered with tiles. All of that defines a classical Milanese restaurant where Italians (note: we were the only “tourists” in the restaurant that day) eat their taglione pasta with fried artichokes and pomegranate dressing, beef tartare and home-made buns with dried tomatoes. It’s not only a place where you will feel like an Italian and drool over your meal – it’s also the place, where you are likely to meet somebody from the Milan-based fashion industry. I’ve met with Alessandro Dell’AcQua, the creative director behind N21 and Rochas, the second time in this city – specifically, firstly at his show last autumn, and here!

Via Pasquale Sottocorno 6 / Milan

This cigarette look from Dell’AcQua’s last womenswear outing makes me think of Bistrot Giacomo, somehow…

All photographs of Bistrot Giacomo courtesy of Design & Culture by Ed

Milan by Night

February 8, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Milan by night is all about the people, who seem to be so relaxed and never in a hurry; the scent of bold flowers from the local, street kiosks; the smell of delightful Italian cuisine coming from trattorias and bristros; and the beauty of lit up architecture, which never stops mesmerising. And it’s the city, where trams look always chic – observing elder women who wear their mink coats and tweed pencil skirts entering the old-school public transport is both, a fashion moment and me-after-school defining goal.

Love you, Milan.

Yep, it’s me!

All photographs courtesy of Design & Culture by Ed

Café Marchesi

February 7, 2016July 27, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

Let’s praise Miuccia Prada not only for her reality-subverting fashion at Prada and MiuMiu, famous Prada Marfa installation, mind-blowing creation of FondazionePrada, but also for Cafe Marchesi, the newest addition to the visionnaire’s portfolio. Located on Via Montenapoleone, the chicest street of Milan, Miuccia revived the iconic PaticcerieMarchesi into a must-visit spot of every fashion person who is in hurry for the next show. The roots of PasticceriaMarchesi begin in 1824, when a small pastry shop opened inside an elegant 18th century building. The shop quietly evolved in the 1900s when Angelo Marchesi expanded its services to a coffee bar, early evening cocktails and freshly baked pastries, cakes, cookies and candies. The main, sweet aim of this place is still the same – but after the re-opening in 2015, the industry got crowded in here, seeing the Miuccia-selected pastel green silks as wall tapestries and Wes-Anderson-like colour palette delights. If talking of their goods, I confess – I have never, ever eaten a better marzipan cake with strawberries. Additionally, Marchesi is already a sentimental place for me – it’s the place were I had a love affair with coffee. The Marocchino rules.