The old new identity implemented by Alessandro Michele for Gucci is well-known to all of us – and within the autumn-winter 2016 season, the designer has his first year as the creative director of the womenswear line behind. The “renaissance” mood Alessandro brings back to fashion, as I wrote here and here, deserves applause and praise. Noting that he has utterly revamped the pretentious sleek Italian empire into a brand, which considers Italian craftsmanship as priority, makes Michele’s warm softness more than a trend. It’s about his personal style, and his adoration to old, Italian paintings, antique rings and 70s / 80s attitude. The AW16 collection, in fact, isn’t a surprise – knowing the designer’s deeply rooted inspirations and eclectic aesthetics, you won’t see a totally different theme, coming out from nowhere, during his tenure. Even if this might lead to the Frida-Gianini-effect – a kind of unexcitement starts to accompany his shows, just like before, when his precedessor designed for Gucci. We’ve seen it all during Alessandro’s year – the Pompeian print skirts, pussy-bow dresses, GG buckle belts and those alta moda gowns. They delight the eye, indeed. Just like the crystal-embroidered bodices, inspired with 16th century costumes. But it lacks this loud “wow” everybody gasped last February.