Men’s / Low-Key Luxe. Berluti SS18

June 27, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

‘Understated luxury’ is quite the term to describe Haider Ackermann‘s fashion at Berluti. It’s the designer’s second season at LVMH’s menswear-only house, and although it seems that his bad-boy aesthetic might not fittingly root in at Berluti, Ackermann finds the right balance. Haider’s low-key chic for very rich men (only they can afford the brand, in fact) oozes in those hand-crafted leather jackets, incredibly tailored coats and deluxe sweatpants. Even though Berluti isn’t planning to open a womenswear line, models (from icons Stella Tennant and Liya Kebede to runway regulars Mica Arganaraz and Kiki De Willems) appeared in masculine silhouettes. “Well, it’s always amusing to have women around. And they all borrow men’s clothes. It’s a healthy thing, a sexy thing,” Ackermann concluded post-show.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Men’s / For Robert. Ann Demeulemeester SS18

June 26, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Sébastien Meunier‘s spring-summer 2018 collection for Ann Demeulemeester was a clear message: a romantic ode to Robert Mapplethorpe, the late New York-based photographer. While some designers resign from mood-boards and straight-forward references, Meunier decided to fully convey his respect for the artist. In fact, the forever elusive persona of Mapplethorpe has much to do with Demeulemeester’s house-codes and legacy. For instance, the New Yorker of the 70s and 80s had an intense love relationship with Patti Smith – a muse and long-time friend of the brand’s founder. That’s quite a connection. Then, the dark aesthetic of Robert’s work and his personal style. Probably, if you could pick the best Ann Demeulemeester kind of man, then the choice would be clear. The clothes say it all: loosely-fit black trousers; sheer tank-tops; robes with a poet-like feel. But also, crumpled white shirts and lots of charms and pendants. Although Meunier definitely took the softer image of Mapplethorpe (distant from leather kinkiness), the designer succeeded reaching his goal.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki (backdrop: Robert Mapplethorpe’s photographs).

Men’s / Boyish Hues. Dries Van Noten SS18

June 25, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

After celebrating a significant anniversary last season – specifically his 100th collection – Dries Van Noten decided to show pure, menswear brilliance. Everything is in-demand: the hues (which spanned from pigeon grey and pastel blue to military green and peach), the outerwear (see those trench coats) and even the extra-short shorts (most debatable trend of the fashion week in Paris). Van Noten’s boy might both, sit in the library for days or be a member of an alternative rock band. Whoever he is, I’m secretly planning to steal his wardrobe…

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Men’s / Heroic. Rick Owens SS18

June 25, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Heroic garments need exposure – that’s why Rick Owens took his models to an elevated runway, which spanned above a Parisian courtyard. Although the city was going through a heat wave that day, Owens sent a line of voluminous trousers and fluid-like tank-tops. Some of the guys carried huge, cuboid pouches, while others wore lengthy coats. As usual, it was all about the silhouette: the designer is known for his unique skills in draping and sculpting clothes. Finding beauty in the odd counts to Owens, whether he means diverse model casting or creating his own avantgarde. “I’m seeing this kind of normality in the world that’s being lionised and deified and personally that is my personally refrain in life, ‘I need a freak’. I need somebody to make effort and it needs to be rare and not banal and not prosaic or conventional,” he told Dazed. Meaningful.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki (backdrop from Maïmouna Guerresi’s ‘The Giants’ series).

Men’s / Soigné. Haider Ackermann SS18

June 24, 2017June 24, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Haider Ackermann cuts a suit like no other. The lilac one (pictured above) worn by runway favourite Paul Hameline is defining the term soigné in menswear. It’s simple in its form, but decadent, noting that the model wears it on his bare body. But this wasn’t the only highlight coming from Ackermann’s spring-summer 2018. Pin-stripe goes laid back with the designer’s to-die-for blazers and pantalons, while the creamy tank-top styled with nonchalantly tied scarf feels eternally chic. The women’s part (understood as resort 2018 segment) is as desirable as the men’s summer, with lots of seductive flesh exposing and cropping. Haider, this one’s so good!