Men’s / Voyager. Haider Ackermann AW18

January 19, 2018January 19, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

My love for Haider Ackermann is indescribable, really. His aesthetic, his style, his sensibility for colours and textures. The autumn-winter 2018 collection rotated somewhere around Moroccan souks and Japanese bath houses, at least this is how I’ve perceived it. Oriental, but not direct. Whether Ackermann’s man is a nearly mythical lifetime voyager or a guy from Paris wearing his velvet varsity jacket and high-waisted satin trackpants on the daily basis, I have the same feeling every season after seeing the designer’s show: I want to be, or at least look, like this man. Obsessed.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Men’s / UGG in the Hood. Y/Project AW18

January 18, 2018January 18, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

To be honest, it was quite predictable that at some point, with ‘ugly’ shoes having a moment, UGG will also hit the high fashion runways. But I never thought that in such way as presented on yesterday’s Y/Project runway. Glenn Martens earned his fanbase with elongating and distorting nearly each garment possible; so he did in his collaboration with the Australian footwear brand, known for the fluffiest and cosiest boots. The effect? Well, really, really perfect for snowy winters. But the label’s autumn-winter 2018 wasn’t only about big feet, but layering. Layering, layering, layering, whether we’re speaking of extra-large hoodies, tartan shirts or tailoring.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Men’s / Adored Fits. Lemaire AW18

January 18, 2018January 18, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

Christophe Lemaire and Sarah Linh Tran, season after season, find a way to make their truly timeless clothes feel exciting. Maybe this season it’s all thanks to the pink turtleneck the models wore under russet-brown cardigans and coats? That was a glimpse of colour that doesn’t affiliate with Lemaire, but surprisingly looked great. The brand is known for its sense (and love) for artistry. A designers’ friend contributed the muted paisley and feather-overlay marble prints used in outerwear, shirting, mohair knits and pants. Of course, for more classical Lemaire devotees, there are the signature, relaxed fits and silhouettes in ecru, black or grey (can I ask for that loosely fitted suit, please?). As always, Lemaire wins my heart.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Modern Dark Age. GmbH AW18

January 17, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

“We started thinking that the time we’re living in feels like ‘the modern dark ages,‘” said Benjamin Alexander Huseby, one part of the GmbH‘s duo. “How do we protect ourselves?” Together with Serhat Isik, the label that originates from Berlin asks important questions regarding global issues, and answers them with clothes. There was something very ‘protective’ about the autumn-winter 2018 garments the couple presented at an industrial, graffitied overhang in Paris. Chainmail tank-tops; dirt-bike gloves; motocross silhouettes; structural biker jackets. Some of the pieces were ornamented with meticulous thread-work. “We developed these embroideries as a coat of arms, in a way. We took this plant, a stinging nettle, which is kind of unruly and unwanted and slightly aggressive—it grows everywhere that you don’t want it to,” said Isik, with Huseby adding: “Which relates to this otherness that we can feel. The others, the immigrants, not wanted.” Although there was a glimpse of bold yellow (in form of a loosely fit sweatshirt), the collection was kept in greys, navy and melancholic, dark green.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

At Home. Chloé Pre-Fall 2018

January 10, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

If you ask Natacha Ramsay-Levi to define her own style, the answer won’t be as straightforward as you would expect from a designer. “I admire people who have a uniform, but I’ve never found mine and I probably never will because I love fashion’s diversity,” she explained. Pre-fall 2018 is Natacha’s second collection for Chloé, a female-loving French maison, and it already feels that even if she doesn’t have an arbitrary ‘look’ that has to end up in the stores, she feels here like at home. And that’s good – thanks to that, the creative director’s work has a sense of easiness. What we discovered about Ramsay-Levi in her debut is that she has a soft point for jaw-dropping boots and whimsical jewellery (those pieces smoothly transit into the autumn days). Here, it’s a strong game of cognac leather coats, shirt-dresses and 70s blouses. Also, the designer wisely does the horse-rider style that’s distinctly Chloé, whether we’re speaking of the tiny horse prints on bags or wool capes. Although white socks tend to get on my nerves after 2017’s Vetements obsession, the way Natacha pulls them off in her refined pre-fall makes you wonder, whether luxe-y athleisure is back.