Paris

Laid Back. Saint Laurent Resort 2018

| Design & Culture by Ed

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With empty champagne bottles already in the bin and batteries (hopefully) recharged, here we are in 2018! And the first post of the year goes to Anthony Vaccarello‘s resort 2018 collection for Saint Laurent. The look-book, starring Lexi Boling and Hiandra Martinez, is a mix of all those New Year feels. From one side, it’s about glamorous, party dresses and boots covered with feathers. But from the other, it’s just the right amount of laid-back chic: denim, suede and over-sized fur coats. Vaccarello, who does contemporary Yves Saint Laurent with grace, knows that every great party demands a day, or two, of naps and looking ‘casual’.

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Phoebe Philo Forever

| Design & Culture by Ed

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Ten years – a decade – means really something in fashion industry. Phoebe Philo’s era at Céline didn’t only change the course of fashion (minimal-slash-arty aesthetic; raw, Juergen Teller-like advertising; presenting pre-collections just before they hit the stores – many other labels follow Philo’s ‘rules’ like a prophet), but the way women approach clothing. Once the Céline woman goes for masculine, XXL coats that continue to sell like hot buns since Philo’s collections in 2010; then, the other time she takes a delicate slip-dress with lace inserts or a clingy, knitted sweater in olive-green. In her feature on Philo’s power, Cathy Horyn stated in the following way: Philo’s clothes were not just simply for women; they were also about women — their distractions, their routines, the way they stuff a bag under an arm or concoct an outfit out of a dress and trousers, their sideways longing for red-lipped glamour, their disdain for basics, their love of uniforms, their wisdom and maturity. Unlike other designers who do ready-to-wear, Phoebe didn’t bother with ‘telling stories’ – she just wanted the clothes to become a woman’s close friend.

 For me, her collections were the most anticipated moments during Paris fashion weeks, while the look-books were always like a sweet treat. Whether we’re speaking of Philo’s spring-summer 2013 fur-lined Birkenstock sandals, autumn-winter 2017 green blankets, autumn-winter 2015 white sneakers or spring-summer 2017 mega-big tote bag, it’s undisputable: she is the master of desirable, yet unconventional accessories. My heart bleeds, when I think of all the beautiful things Philo gave us while at helm of the maison. The rumour has it that the designer isn’t planning to lead a label anytime soon. Although that sounds devastating, it makes sense: Phoebe Philo frequently highlighted her urge for ‘slowing down’. Today’s fashion is at a insanely pointless, fast pace. I hope that 2018 will become some kind of ‘breaking’ year for all that.

Below, I’m looking back at some of my favourite Phoebe-at-Céline wonders.

Pre-fall 2010; SS10; pre-fall 2010.
Pre-fall 2015.
Pre-fall 2016.
SS16.
AW10; pre-fall 2011; AW10.
Resort 2016; AW16; resort 2016.
AW11.
Resort 2017.
AW16; SS17 jewellery; SS17.
Resort 2012.
SS16.
Pre-fall 2012.
SS17.
AW12.
Pre-fall 2017; SS17; pre-fall 2017.
SS13; resort 2014; resort 2015.
AW17.
SS18.
AW13.
AW17; pre-fall 2017; AW17.
AW17.
AW17.
SS14; SS13; SS14.
Resort 2018.
SS14.
AW17.
AW14; AW15; AW14.
SS18.
AW15.
Resort 2018.
SS18.
SS16.

All collages by Edward Kanarecki. Ad campaigns by Jurgen Teller and Tyrone Lebon.

Céline Selection

| Design & Culture by Ed

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Since Céline opened its on-line store, it’s worth checking out their site from time to time. Even if you can’t afford one of those perfects coats or knits with foulard inserts, the brand will treat you with some very. very lovely visuals (probably taken by Juergen Teller). I’m enchanted with Charlee Fraser and the bangles shot, just like with the entire resort 2018 collection. Enjoy!

P.s. It’s official – Phoebe Philo leaves Céline. A huge, tribute post is coming up. But let’s feel the festive mood for now and leave the sorrows for later…

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Paris. Sonia Rykiel Pre-Fall 2018

| Design & Culture by Ed

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I’ve been quite absent for the last week, because of a really nasty flu – but this doesn’t mean I wasn’t peeking at the splash of pre-fall collections. Well, that already seems like a dull season, to be honest. But one label really did caught my eye.

Julie de Libran‘s take on Sonia Rykiel has fluctuating results – sometimes, her collections can be described as just ‘basic’, with no depth or any braver concept. However, as in case of pre-fall 2018, there are the right shots. “It’s just a sweater, a skirt, and a good boot,” she might have said modestly. Still, those look more than ‘just good’. And how Parisian (sorry for the cliché, but it’s a fact!). The leather coat-dress in ecru is gorgeous, just like the semi-sheer jacquard gowns in red and navy. Seems like a perfect New Year’s Eve go-to wardrobe, if only it came early enough to the stores… After more than three years of creative direction, it feels that de Libran and Rykiel brand built a strong bond. The designer revealed that she recently became a shareholder and partner in Sonia Rykiel. “I’m part of the family now”. With such great collections coming, Julie proves she succesfully continues the legacy of the late, Left Bank Parisienne.

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Night Dressing. Paco Rabanne SS18

| Design & Culture by Ed

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Sometimes, you fall in love with a collection since the very first moment you’ve seen it. But sometimes, you need some time to get the point behind it. This is what I felt with Julien Dossena‘s Paco Rabanne spring-summer 2018 fashion show. It’s difficult to revive   the most ‘contemporary’ brand of 20th century in 21th century, especially in 2017, where defining anything is quite a struggle. However, Dossena understands well what a today’s woman wants and enjoys in fashion – just like Paco did in the 60s. “It was sort of disco boogie-nights,” Julien said backstage of his show, “but then we cleaned it up. I wanted something a little over the top, but precise and refined.” The brand’s cult chain-mail was intriguingly mixed with paisley print, pastel-pink transparency and athleisure-fit, elastic fabrics. But all that very Parisian glow and this chic ‘party’ attitude is what looks like a great way for dressing to celebrate the upcoming festive season. Whether you style it Space Age, Barbarella-mod or more Françoise Hardy, the New Year’s Eve in Paco might be it.

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki.