Generation’s Wardrobe. Y / Project AW16

March 3, 2016December 14, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Just after reviewing Koché, Y / Project is the next clear prove that Paris looks forward to labels found by new-gen talents, and those who made the cut in the LVMH Prize Awards. Ideas proposed by Glenn Martens blur between the terms feminine and masculine, but also, reflect on the generations’ love for Scream Queens pastel-pink trashiness, Cher’s good, old looks and this neo-goth, neo-grunge mood (which appears repeatedly this season). To an extend, the collection reminds me of Vetements, with its focus on denim (here, it’s all about the slouchy, elongated length of pants as seen above) and a kind of anti-fashion attitude. But you can’t compare Glenn Martens’ label to the fashion collective lead by Demna Gvasalia – the philosophies of these two brands are totally different, just like the approach. At Y / Project, drama plays a role – bishop sleeves worn loosely with pencil skirts; sheer robes with ruff-like collars ooze with ethereal elegance, but with a modern-day twist. The list of must-haves keeps adding up, and curiosity of what’s to come at Y / Project makes me wonder.

Street Attitude. Koché AW16

March 3, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

It’s hard to be a young and independent fashion designer in Paris, fighting for attention in the crowd of Chanel-s, Balmain-s and Saint Laurent-s. Surprisingly, Paris Fashion Week starts with a day of fresh and trending labels – meet Koché, the creation of Christelle Kocher, the new girl in the schedule and a second-time LVMH finalist .“I’m sharing my Paris with other people,” is how she described the unusual venue of her fashion – the 18th-century Passage du Prado, which nowadays is adopted by African hairdressers and little mobile phone shops. So, no – it’s not Grand Palais or a Rue Saint Honore showroom.

However, the spirit of a Parisian atelier is not left out at Koché. Christelle collaborates with Maison Lemarié, which does mesmerizing, artisan detailings using feathers and plume only – and the way she implemented haute couture into her hoodies and tees is just mind-blowing. The contrast is stunning, just like the models’ cast. Doing it in Eckhaus Latta way, the designer invited professional models (Karly Loyce, Soo Joo), friends and people she met on the streets, breaking the convention of an ordinary line-up. Although this stuff will be expensive (velvet skirts, shearling jacket patchworked with layers of white lace), Koché is already stirring the industry with its unique, yet über-cool attitude. I wonder where will the designer lead her brand – biting the dust and taking it on a mainstream path, or rather keeping it off-beat? Hope for the latter.

Elevated Poetry. Jacquemus AW16

March 2, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

It’s Paris, and it feels like a breath of fresh air coming along Jacquemus‘ autumn-winter 2016. The city of French fashion is undergoing a wave of youthful talent – and Simon Porte Jacquemus represents that perfectly with his extraordinary, yet wearable garments. “I would like there to be less industry and more poetry” is what he declared backstage, minutes before the show. It was all about a surrealist illusion this season – the dresses floated in the air and spaghetti straps were magically elevated above the shoulders. The exaggerated shoulders, although distinctly reminded the old, good Martin Margiela, introduced us to other arty shapes and geometric cuts – sometimes, they looked even too grotesque, as in case of the “mini-skirt” worn with a pastel-blue turtleneck. But what was the most genuine from the entire collection was the expanded accessory line – block-heeled “rond carré” shoes, asymmetrical gloves in tangerine orange and cute, kidney-shaped bags are the highlights, which will sell well.

A very, very experimental, yet down-to-earth start of Paris Fashion Week!

So Miuccia. Miu Miu Pre-Fall’16

February 2, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Miuccia Prada is the designer, whose signature is so idiosyncratic and specific that you can’t mistake her designs with anybody’s else. Her use of colours, textures and textiles feels always utterly… Miuccia. So no wonder why Miu Miu‘s pre-fall 2016 collection, silently presented in rue Saint Honore store’s second floor, was filled with lace pencil skirts, socks, jewelled velvet pumps and corduroy jackets. It had the classical, Miu Miu girlie chic, which can’t be compared to “ugly beauty” theme which is constantly reinterpreted and channelled at Prada. If talking of shoes, there was the continuation of spring-summer 2016 footwear line, so the romantic and care-free ballerinas, now detailed with embroideries and buckled straps.

HC – Eclectic Candy. Valentino SS16

February 1, 2016January 31, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

I must admit – this time the haute couture week in Paris dissapointed me. It distinctly feels that the designers are frustrated with the speed of fashion industry, and such time-consuming, uncommercial collection like couture seems to be missed with the point. However, the only brand that made me sigh was Valentino – and that’s strange, because I have always ignored Maria Grazia Chiuri‘s and Pierpaolo Piccioli‘s pastel-pink-princess-dress vision. BUT, few of their last collections are great and absolutely different – and it’s visible that this designer duo push their boundaries, putting their Insta-famous rockstud stilettos and camo bags aside. The couture spring-summer 2016 collection is indeed a candy for the eye. There was an exotic, “Venetian-pagan” romanticism about this collection, from the sculptural, golden harnesses to ornamental gowns with meticulous floral embroideries and monarchy-like coats with fur-linings. I loved the sensual, sheer gowns with delicate Victoriana collars as much as the body-dresses which were more built-up and excessive. This bi-polar and eclectic outing, covered with white rose petals, was also all about the barefoot models, which looked like Grecian goddesses in their snake-themed crowns and neck-lines. Totally into this one, Valentino.