Christophe Lemaire‘s SS16 for guys is not really a collection, but a full wardrobe with all must-have essentials. Black tank-tops? Check. Beige coats? Check. White shirts? Check. With a minimal splash of pistachio green there and there, Lemaire‘s summer offering is not about introducing new trends but rather discusses whether your casual, everyday wardrobe is ready on the go. And this makes the collection unruffled and tranquil, without much spark in it.
Wow – green? Yes! Riccardo Tisci absoutely shocked me with his very detox-coloured Resort for Givenchy. Minty dresses, olive skirts, khaki jackets, emerald animal prints (kind of eew) – mostly everything was splashed with the colour of peace, matcha tea and pea. And not overkill it, Tisci brought on the totally white looks at the end, giving us a smooth, elegant ending. To make it even more unexpected, the Givenchy team shot the look-book on the streets of London – this gives us a hint that the house thrives to surprise again, leaving behind printed t-shirts and dressing Kim and Kanye.
Parisian chic has always been an inspiration for designers – but some simply have it in their blood, even if they are not totally from Paris. As I am excited about my Parisian trip which will take place soon, I thought about creating a list of my favourite brands with this famous Parisian attitude.
Celine by Phoebe Philo. The most Parisian of them all. Why? The Celine woman tends to wear black turtleneck dresses with casual, white trainers. Also, this intriguing woman carries her Hobo bag with a chic “so whatever” attitude, giving no s*** whether somebody is going to steal her calfskin wallet. That AMAZING woman is super assertive regarding her beliefs, too, and loves a good book (maybe Patrick Mondiano, for example). Where? You can meet her mostly everywhere in Paris – she might be eating french fries at the fancy L’Avenue or visit Musee d’Orsay for the 2nd time in the month.
Maryam Nassir Zadeh. Although the designer is based in New York, her chic clothes are reflecting Paris. Why? Just look at this outfit. It is so Amelia. A cute pea coat, toned orange midi skirt and comfortable flats. Where? In the Metro Paris. On the Clignancourt flea market.
Crista Seya. Her camel pieces are Parisian essentials. Why? Crista Seya woman feels an aversion towards logos and truly enjoys eponymous labels. Her shoes are made in Argentina while the “travel” bag is always on fleek. However you can’t say that about her outfit – slouchy pantalons, deep layer of knits and over-sized coat. Where? I see her in the Latin Quarter district. It would perfectly suit her lovely messiness.
(Christophe) Lemaire. The wardrobe of a Parisian woman. Why? Lemaire’s collections are concentrated on basics. Well tailored trousers, masculine blazers, soft cashmere sweaters and casual shirts are his essentials. Where? Rue du Saint Honore. Not too fancy and not too modest. Very #treschic!
Haider Ackermann. If Phoebe Philo is the queen of Parisian chic, then Haider is the king. Why? Ackermann is the master of layering. Also, he fuses masculine jackets and trousers with feminine silhouettes (flawless pleated skirts, for example) in a marvelous way. Where? Le Marais district is Haider’s place. Its edginess and off-beat vibe matches the designer’s style in a very good way…
AU REVOIR!
The list of inspirations that designer Isaac Reina names include architects and industrial designers like Jasper Morrison instead of the usual fashion suspects. That’s not to say that Reina doesn’t know luxury – he spent years at luxury leather giant Hermes, and collaborated with Maison Martin Margiela. It’s just that his version of luxury relies on what is not said, knowing when to use luxury elements and when to refrain from all the embellishments and other. I am happy to present you our June interview with this amazing leather goods designer from Paris!
How would you describe “the user” of Isaac Reina leather goods?
Architects, designers, photographers, graphic designers… For now, our typical client is someone extremely cultured and exigent who is generally looking for an alternative to big brands that are too much distributed. They find themselves in our products which are more discrete and confidential.
Are your leather goods “minimal” or rather “sophisticated”? Or both?
Both. We are always looking for the right balance between minimal and sophisticated. If we tend to do minimal work, we might forget some practical and useful aspects necessary in a bag or a wallet. If on the opposite we tend to do sophisticated work we might loose the strength of the first and formal essence of the product. Therefore, we are always searching for something ultra simple and sufficiently sophisticated or something sophisticated without excess.
You have studied architecture in the past. Does it influence your wallets, bags, backpacks, clutches and others?
Definitely. Because architecture is only made of geometry (square, circle, triangle…)which is also our tools and is a very similar approach. Of course architecture has its own techniques specific to architecture itself, like all profession has, very different but incredibly parallel in the projects.
How would you define “luxury” in nowadays leather goods industry?
Luxury itself doesn’t interest me. But I am interested in someone feeling at ease with one of our bag or wallet because the product conveys values and shapes that correspond and suit him/her.
Your brand is all about leather goods. Are you planning to expand the brand with shoes, etc.?
Not shoes at the moment. It is too difficult for me. But since a little time, i am working on new projects like stationary, small objects and furnitures to edit in the future. Why not?
Special thanks to Isaac Reina for sending me the exclusive photos of his showroom and store in Paris,
38 rue de Sevigne
Visit http://www.isaacreina.com for more.
The Colombian designer and one of Antwerp’s brightest stars, Haider Ackermann, does this again. There is something unexplainable about his AW15 collection. Ackermann’s sensitivity with drape and textures is shown through every collection – but this time, he outdid himself. The variety of tweeds, flannels, felts, leathers and silks was so big and unexpectadely, looked great styled up together. The pirate jackets were all about bold checks and animal prints while the floor-sweeping skirts and coats created an ethereal atmosphere of Angelina Jolie in the Disney movie, Maleficent. Also, notice the details on the jackets – white stitches and safety spins were strong references to the lingering love of punk and rock & roll. These are modern clothes for women who love to spice up their dandy style. What can I say more? This slightly chaotic, decadent collection from AW15 Paris Fashion Week is the one I truly love the most.
Design & Culture by Ed 