Stereotypes. Vetements AW17

January 28, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Last week was about so many things going on in Paris. Menswear shows, which were especially good this season; haute couture collections that were so boring or, hmm, boring I just couldn’t find the energy to write about them. And then there was Vetements autumn-winter 2017 collection for both men and women – this one sparked the discussion immediately. At some point Demna Gvasalia and his collective had to slow down with doing viral sweatshirts, or else a day would come saying the brand burnt out. Good for them – the latest collection distinctly differs from the previous ones, in its structure and the idea behind (no sleazy sex-clubs; no Juicy Couture collabs).

Vetements is a brand, which authentically origins from the streets, and this season the collective literally took all their urban observations to the Centre Pompidou venue. There was the emo girl with her black hair, black-everything gear; a Milanesa, an elderly lady who knows what’s chic in her fur coat; chavs in tracksuits and football-team scarves; corporate secretary aka Lotta Volkova; Coco ~~Chanel~~ lady in her pearls and tweed; IT nerds and perversely looking geeks. There was even a badass bride – a nod to the glossy anti-Vetements world of couture. Stereotypes function in our society and no wonder why Gvasalia decided to mess up with them. If you want to push Vetements’ AW17 into any trend report, good luck then – start from ‘military’ and end on ‘German tourists’.

Men’s – Haiderness. Berluti AW17

January 26, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Haider Ackermann‘s appointment as the creative director of Berluti was one of the best news of 2016. In the past, Berluti had some good collections under Alessandro Sartori, however the overall image of this menswear brand was unclear. Knowing and loving Haider at his namesake label for years, his new role at Berluti felt promising – in fact that was a certain success. Although it’s just the debut collection, Ackermann already presented his new additions to the historic brand, sending down the runway few women’s looks (worn by Liya Kebede, Jamie Bochert – his long-time muses). Berluti girls matched their boys, who also fancied velvet blazers and earthy colour palette. Camel coat was the opening look, signalling Ackermann’s approach to everyday wear, rather than rock & roll dandies we know so well from his own collections. The lilac aviator jacket in suede is a dream-come-true, just like the coats with over-sized, fur collars. Drooling! Need even more of that Haiderness.

Men’s – Poetry. Ann Demeulemeester AW17

January 25, 2017January 25, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

When Ann Demeulemeester stepped down from the role at her namesake brand in 2013, I wondered – how difficult will it be for any successor to continue her legacy, yet not fall into biting the archives? Sébastien Meunier had his ups and falls since he became the creative director at Demeulemeester. But his men’s autumn-winter 2017 is unconditionally the best to date.

Perhaps it’s the season, where he found the balance between his personal creative language and Ann’s style codes. It was one of the most sensual and beautiful collections I have ever seen for men – pure poesy, where everything flows and works together, from the textures to the colours. From delicate white shirting with lace to all-black equivalents, Meunier re-invented, consciously or not, the way we perceive a poet: eccentric, romantic, on the boundary between ‘masculine’ and ‘feminine’. Even the fur-lined parka jackets would dress a modern-day Edgar Allan Poe or William Blake. Eventually, it was Ann who said those words about both, poets and her favourite colour: “Black is not sad. Bright colors are what depresses me. They’re so… empty. Black is poetic. How do you imagine a poet? In a bright yellow jacket? Probably not.”

In her work, Demeulemeester often used feathers and plume, whether in jewellery or vest-making. Meunier did nonchalant, big feather shawls and breath-taking hats, which looked so elegantly decadent that I’m just… speechless.

Men’s – Sober and Grounded. Dries Van Noten AW17

January 24, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Autumn-winter 2017 wasn’t just another brilliant men’s collection chez Dries Van Noten. 99 is quite a number – and presenting your 99th collection is a big deal. Other designers would do a big party after the show, while Dries, in his manner, took a moment for reflection. “I wanted it to be grounded.” Deciding on what’s essential for him in a men’s wardrobe, the Belgian designer took a spin on basics, keeping them slightly more sober than usual. Wool coats with boxy shoulders (sounds Balenciaga, but looks much more refined); a great line of denim pants (!); Dr. Martens-like boots. Van Noten doesn’t play 70s-that, 90s-that trends: actually, these were the clothes he used to wear in his early days, and continues to wear on daily basis up to now. You will wear one of those big Peruvian-wool knits forever, just like the grey cardigan or oldie-but-goodie logo sweatshirt. There’s this sense of timeless in Dries’ latest collection and t’s real. No place for cliché here.

Men’s – Workwear. Yohji Yamamoto AW17

January 23, 2017January 23, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Yohji Yamamoto wanted to recall that “basic aspect of the labor” – he referred to all the people in the background, who help him construct his exquisite garments. That’s a fact – real clothing can’t be made without human hands, you need to use your fingers to understand the texture; your body, to see how the piece looks on a living and breathing person. Having all that in mind, seeing Yamamoto’s menswear was a true experience. A man’s suit appeared in a number of different colours and fabrics, while elegant reversible coats, masculine vests and romantic capes were hand-painted with ‘working man’ slogans. There’s no fuss about Yohji’ collection – and that’s why I might adore them so much, always.