Last week was about so many things going on in Paris. Menswear shows, which were especially good this season; haute couture collections that were so boring or, hmm, boring I just couldn’t find the energy to write about them. And then there was Vetements autumn-winter 2017 collection for both men and women – this one sparked the discussion immediately. At some point Demna Gvasalia and his collective had to slow down with doing viral sweatshirts, or else a day would come saying the brand burnt out. Good for them – the latest collection distinctly differs from the previous ones, in its structure and the idea behind (no sleazy sex-clubs; no Juicy Couture collabs).
Vetements is a brand, which authentically origins from the streets, and this season the collective literally took all their urban observations to the Centre Pompidou venue. There was the emo girl with her black hair, black-everything gear; a Milanesa, an elderly lady who knows what’s chic in her fur coat; chavs in tracksuits and football-team scarves; corporate secretary aka Lotta Volkova; Coco
Chanel lady in her pearls and tweed; IT nerds and perversely looking geeks. There was even a badass bride – a nod to the glossy anti-Vetements world of couture. Stereotypes function in our society and no wonder why Gvasalia decided to mess up with them. If you want to push Vetements’ AW17 into any trend report, good luck then – start from ‘military’ and end on ‘German tourists’.