Miuccia Prada surely watched too much of Barbie before designing her collection for Miu Miu in Paris. The AW14 was so candy-flossy-barbie-girl-plastic-fantastic, that it’s simply impossible. But, well, it is. And those plastic shoes with a nail. They are killer. What’s more, some girlie embroidery was seen here too, with strong colours of pink, yellow and blue. There where those radiant PVC coats that are perfect for a rainy autumn day… A lot things happened here. And that’s totally opposite to the main Prada collection… I love it too bad.
Reviews
Right Now. Louis Vuitton AW14
So here we are. The excitment is gone. Nicolas Ghesquiere debuted at Louis Vuitton. The ex-designer of Balenciaga is the new ancestor of Marc Jacobs… And even wrote a letter to the guests (see the next pictures). But was it worth to put such ambitious, creative and independent designer to this powerhouse? In reality the collection looked unfortunately like a Balenciaga show (before Alexander Wang came to the house). But, much more tamed of it’s creativity. The clothes looked timeless, but if somebody of LV wouldn’t put the monogram belts and bags into the looks, it would be called out as old, good Balenciaga made by Ghesquiere. The collection felt a bit rock’n’roll (these slim leather trousers) and modern at the same time. It all looked wearable, and these prints really reminded me of something… But the biggest sensation of the show was Petit Malle, or the little trunk. As the name suggests, this bag was a miniature version of classical, Louis Vuitton trunk… and it looked cool. Like the collection. It was very Ghesquiere, but not too Louis Vuitton. It’s hard to say if I am yay or nay… and your opininon?
Biopiracy. Iris Van Herpen AW14
Iris Van Herpen is a designer, that is between high-technology and imagination. And, what’s most exciting about her, is the fact, that she makes both of these things real- or rather bio-real. Her ready-to-wear collection for AW14 showed in Paris was called Biopiracy- the biological respiration. Three models were elevated in vacuum spaces, having their air taken away every minute by the plastic which shrinked. The models looked very alien- like if an UFO was going to be born! Surely, that made the show really buzzed about (to that degree that National Geographic got interested in it)… But talking of the collection it was… extreme. Not only because of the shoes designed by Rem Koolhas, but becasue of the sci-fi shapes and fabrics. The most obvious example of this is her groundbreaking embracing of 3-D printing, which is becoming something of a signature. It gives many of her clothes an architectural quality, and today’s final silicone 3-D-printed dress was made in conjunction with one of her collaborators, the Canadian architect Philip Beesley. Collaboration is key for Van Herpen; one of her other working relationships is with the Material Department of MIT. Her next step is a project with CERN—yes, the supercollider people… Iris knows how to make Paris Fashion Week go outer space!
Nordic. Alexander McQueen AW14
Like a Nordic warrior – from the past or far in the future, we couldn’t tell. Cornrows circled the models’ heads like a beehive, with two plaits left long at the front. Faces were deathly pale with a white sheen as if frosted, and lips a cold metallic. That was the Alexander McQueen show, showed in a mossy, misty forest. Soft, virgin-white pieces worn against untouched, alabaster skin: broderie anglaise dresses with billowing peasant sleeves and starched white pilgrim collars tied with black bows. The damned temptresses wore gothic black: sheer dresses dotted with black feathers that grew into a full feather skirt, seductive low-cut gowns of inky ruffles, and shadowy black fur hoods. Final sheer white gowns were embroidered with stars and moons suggestive of the occult pentagram. These McQueen brides glided along the moss-covered ground, their pristine feathered hems trailing in their wake.
Abstract, but Embroidered. Valentino AW14
Starting with 60’s abstractive prints, progressing with birds, then with chunky sweaters and ending with butterflies, hearts and flowers… That was a very interesting twist for the house of Valentino. But was it necessary? I mean, the clothes were fantastic (that leather cape is my favourite). But so many themes were moved in this collection, that I got lost. It was somewhere between red geometrical patterns and Haute Couture embroidery. And this last gone with an embroidered heart was totally taken from another fairy-tale! That evening dress made out of butterfly tapestry is impressive. But it’s kind of not matching here. So what was the main idea? The new abstraction? Or the surreal beauty? I am still brain-storming that with myself…
Design & Culture by Ed 