Fall Eruptions

June 10, 2013August 31, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

In Paris, one of the minor, but still sharp trend for Fall AW13, is marble. It was presented by Balenciaga and Celine- both of them showed in pretty cool perspectives. Balenciaga by Alexander Wang mixed the marble theme with modernity and archival Cristobal Balenciaga look. The “crispy” sweatshirt that Malgosia Bela wears, at the beginning looks like real marble but in reality it is… Leather accompanied with white paint! I am a anti fan of Wang at Balenciaga, but this is indeed, an innovative idea!

Celine by Phoebe Philo definetly was better- maybe less spectacular, but much more simple and practical. These were small bracelets and necklaces with green marble spheres in the front! Sounds very simple, but it do look cool! Marble was also there in Pre-Fall- looking a bit vintage with gold. And here we can choose from green and ombre marble!

The New Yorkers

June 8, 2013November 3, 2013 | Design & Culture by Ed

The Resort 2014 is already arriving everyday with tones of new collcetions, and it’s the time when the the hottest designers of New York already went for a nap, and the Europeans have just woke up before the Resort/Haute Couture Fashion Weeks. So here it is- a short review of Resort’14 in New York, that covers Proenza Schouler, Altuzarra, Balenciaga (it’s Parisian, but for me, because of Wang as head, it’s New York), Derek Lam and Jason Wu. So lets begin with… The PS brothers, Proenza Schouler!Well, Proenza Schouler is getting every season more mature and colourless, as you can see. Creme, white and grey colours, comfortable forms and warm prints. And it looks very similar to the Pre-Fall collection. There is no excitment, because clearly Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez stand for practicality, and their fantastic unique ideas are on the other side. Sad, because that was really different from others. Now it’s a bit Ralph Lauren- boring, classical.From some time I really love what Joseph Altuzarra is doing recently- first he did a amazing AW13 collection, then took Stella Tennant as a muse… The resort is how he said, sensitive and very femine, but not as sexy as his past ones. We’ve got some wild west pants here and a bit cowboy shirts mixed with modern elegance. Beautiful fur scarves, white dresses, lace and gold, do really match Altuzarra style! No, I’m not crazy. Balenciaga officially IS Parisian, but since Alexander Wang is the creative director, it lost all Parisian Chick. The collection began from Wang’s visit at Cristobal Balenciaga Museum. Yes. Then, Alex did nothing more, but copied the archives and made them black and white. When Ghesquiere designed Balenciaga, it was inspired by archives, but it was futuristic, edgy, modern. Now, with Mr. Wang it looks only into past, and just makes a first look that it’s SO FRESH bacause of the colour palette. I thought it won’t be so bad. Now even Hedi Slimane at Saint Laurent is much more better for me.Derel Lam maybe is not a newcomer, but for sure a shooting star of NYC Fashion. This resort was minimalistic, eometrical and full of inovative fabrics. The dresses are at the time perfect for a shopping at Bergdof’s Goodman, for a run in Central Park and as well for a dinner in Nobu Tribeca. Is it a New York Celine? For now I see big future for Derek!Jason Wu suprised me this Resort season. I usuall didn’t really like Jason Wu’s collection because they were always so formal. But, this time I am pleased! Lots of new materials, fantastic paradise prints, jeans jacketa and midi skirts, plastic trench coats, pink bra’s, transparent lace dresses… There is really a lot of telling. For sure Michelle Obama won’t wear any of these, but it looks more affordable than ever! Jason Wu, big bravo’s for the best (exequies with Marc Jacobs galmorous collection I wrote few days ago)!

Bionic, Take It Supersonic!

June 5, 2013August 31, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Thomas Tait. This is the super human of London Fashion. The title of this post, is taken of one of the best song by Christina Aguilera, BIONIC. When I see the collection by Tait for AW13, I only hear in my head this song. It matches everything. The collection feels like if UFO came to our planet and super agents, so the models, plan the defense attack. Green clouds around, grafitti around. I think the show was presented in a garage, cause under every sit of the guests there was a car number… But coming back to the designer- The old movie Runaway about Sci Fi inspiration is clearly visible here! The clothes, well they are really cyber-superb! Kept in extra neon colours like orange, green and red, the pieces (look at these SUNGLASSES!) are really visible in the crowd. The use of fabrics is always pretty much cosmic- latex, polar mixed with leather and plastic! I love it! his is so “other” and fresh.

The THOMAS TAIT sign is visible everywhere with the .COM ending. Is this a metaphor for the future fashion that Thomas sees? Will be so full of HiFi, pixels and this computer staff? If yes then I don’t have anything oppose about it. One more time about sunglasses- it’s difficult to see something as REFRESHING as this! Last time I so something like this, were the Celine furry sandals. Totally different. The curvy geometric frames look so out of this worls, that I think they would bestseller on Jupiter! And maybe in London?

Twinset. Marc Jacobs Resort’14

June 4, 2013August 28, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Marc Jacobs suprised! And in a good meaning! Well, I thought, that Marc would do something, you know, full of flowers, colours and everything like everytime for the Resorts. And that’s totally not true! The Resort is like a continuation of SS13 and AW13. Glamorous sequins, 70’s polo shirts and skirts, New York “Great Gatsby” epoque and of course… Stripes! The collection is very mature, totally not sweet and cute as last resort.
Is Marc getting a bit of inspiration from… Prada? Look at the blue stripes- and now see SS11 of Miuccia Prada. The crepe skirts are just like Miu Miu SS13 and use of fur in summer? Plus there are also lots of crystals that were in the 2010 Prada era… As for me that’s totally clear- Miuccia Prada and Marc Jacobs are life friends so why not? Will we see soon a collab of these two!
And back to the collection- Jaime Bochert looks beautiful here! Just as the collection!

Pre-Fall 2013 Trend – Tartan’s Attack!

May 2, 2013July 6, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

It’s the time when summer collections are changing into the pre-fall ones, were the new trends are waiting for you! Soon, all e-shops will already have the first tastes of winter and the biggest upcoming trend on horizon is check print! Everything here is in characteristic colours that came from Scotland! Chanel is winning with the Queen of Scotts, Mary story and their a bit punk vibe that will be ultimate trend this season. Preen made it more casual with the street like sweatshirt and Gucci went more 70’s. Very elegant as Dior by Raf Simons. The Celine cabas bag is also tartanised strongly like the beautiful runway coat. And from archives, I found Altuzarra most following the trend- this parka with fur and checked skirts are so sexy looking!