Wilde Heimat is another place I completely fell in love on Mitte’s Torstraße. Looking for 1950s-only furniture and home decorations in Berlin? That’s probably the most perfect spot to dig into. At a first sight it feels like as if Wes Anderson’s production team decided to sell its film sets. Well, I would rather say that it’s Anderson who can look for props right here for an upcoming film.
Torstraße 172 / Berlin
All photos by Edward Kanarecki.
First thing you notice in Raf Simons‘ spring-summer 2018 collection for Calvin Klein is that he’s the man of consistency. The first looks – the new CK uniforms – were the cowboy shirts in heavy colour block, the same as we’ve seen in his debut collection last March. The shoes haven’t changed dramatically, too. The venue took place in Calvin Klein’s headquarters and it was again covered with Sterling Ruby’s installations, but the main motif was actually quite disturbing- knife and blood. Were horrors and criminals on Simons’ mind?
At Klein, he’s a fan for American symbolism, and thrillers are very well rooted in American cinema – wherever we speak of mid-20th century or 2017. To grasp the idea of crime-drenched drama in his new season evening wear, he pulled off 50s looking ball gowns (surprisingly constructed using vinyl). Some of the leather coats looked as if they were blood-stained, which gave the audience a thrill. Horror film vibes got even more serious when latex gloves emerged down the runway – the high fashion reminiscent of Jason’s mask from Friday 13th, some noted. But that wasn’t the end of the American obsession. For this season, the brand collaborated with Andy Warhol Foundation on prints, using some of the lesser known elements of the artist’s works on trousers, t-shirts and dresses. Simons shakes things up again, in a very sinister (even as for him) manner.
Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
Thom Browne is one of the most daring fashion designers in New York. Attending his fashion show is like appearing in an unreal scene. “Fashion is art” statement really does relate to Browne’s creations. For spring-summer 2017, the designer built an incredible venue in an abandoned space in West Chelsea – the walls and floors were covered in multi-coloured tiles, and the guests felt like inside of an empty pool. The common association was right, as the collection had something of a glamorous, pool party galore. Think of the chic, poolside photographs by Slim Aarons in the 50s, when beach life took fashion into the iconic era of jet-set.
Suddenly, the models went out, all dressed in identical over-sized coats embroidered with floral motifs, and matching high-fashion swimming caps. Then, one by one, the models started to take off their coats to reveal the dresses they were wearing under. Trompe l’oeil matches Thom’s subverted ready-to-wear, and it became the season’s synonym. Suits, blazers, shirts with ties – in fact, the guests of the show didn’t see any of that. It was all about a camouflage dress.
So dramatic, and so extraordinary – you can look at this collection from a perspective of a spectacle, and of, yes, a fashion show. Thom Browne is New York’s creative mind.
This is what Miuccia said. That’s true. Who need muses? All women are muses for Prada, not only one, skinny starlet that doesn’t know how to count to three! The AW13 show is the best example of this what Prada thinks. Sexy dresses with cut shoulders, aviator sunglasses, 50’s red skirts, fur and heavy boot. This is the new “naive” girl of Prada. It’s sweet in own way but at the same time super sexy- the models had wet hair that were very hot… That’s the new beautiful “ugly chic” Prada presented many years.
P.S. Something about Prada is going to happen in May on my blog… Be tuned!
Miuccia Prada is a fashion genius. If her collections are beautiful, they are beautiful. If their are ugly, they are also beautiful! The Winter 2014 collection was the one that classified into the beautiful one! And it really was! I am always excited about Prada shows, so I saw it livestream on style.com! And I felt like if I was there. The show that had a moving film on walls, started with a black dress with a cut out triangle on shoulders that was realeated in many other colours and in metallic shades.
A really cool thing was the furry… Don’t how to call it… The models were wearing it on the back between hands. It gave a femine, mature look, however it was mixed with grunge boots. Miuccia also put into the collection brownish-khaki stripes that looked smart casual. And again there was this dress with the shoulders thing! It looks spectacular!
I loved the look that Saskia de Brauw wore- the midi red leather skirt, black top and blue coat. Looked so romanic and 40’s! And the colour I was stunned with was the tourquoise- it was like everywhere! Whole collection was highly inspired with 40’s and 50’s. The alligator leather, fur and strong colours are indicating this! So are we going back to basics?
Metallic dresses… Yes! In gold and silver tones! Some pink colour came on the runway that made the sweet girl effect. However this sweet girl was killed by the elegant but grungy look that was made thanks to the incredible boots.
Prada put on rich and luxury as most of the designers for this season. The ending look was top- a big coat made out of Sobol! It looked so mind blowing! I think, every Prada’s collection tells it’s own remarkable story. This season had one of the best!
Design & Culture by Ed 