Last. A Détacher AW19

New York loses one of its most under-the-radar, but beloved, independent brands – A Détacher. After 21 years of existence, Mona Kowalska closes the brand she created and gifted to the New Yorkers. A Détacher was it: comfortable, well-made, slightly quirky, but easy-in-approach fashion that doesn’t know trends or influencers. It was a rather quiet brand that always delivered heartfelt collections during buzzy, sometimes lost in itself, NYFW. The designer of Polish origins also had (well, still has, as the brand will close in the end of the season) her own boutique on Mulberry street, that sold not only A Détacher, but as well hand-picked vintage, arty candles and everything that’s in Kowalska’s taste. Her last collection is quite dark and is mostly based on the brand’s signature styles: a parachute dress, a turtleneck with highlighted shoulders, fluffy cardigans. The loosely fitted t-shirt dress with a slip dress trompe-l’oeil in the front seems to be a nod to Martin Margiela’s early design. It’s a beautiful, farewell line-up dedicated to A Détacher’s loyal clients. But there are no reasons to cry – we will definitely see Mona back soon, and wherever she takes us, we follow.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

(The Last Moment) Great Gifts To Give!

Giving gifts is a special moment. But what’s even more special is finding them! Here’s a (pretty much) last moment guide of great gifts to give this Christmas to your closest (or to yourself, of course). Scroll down for magical pearl pendants, surreal ceramic mugs, hand-crafted bags, very pricey vintage, heaven scents and incredible, statement pieces! And a few blankets, of course.

This The Vampire’s Wife velvet silk blend dress in red is fit for a Christmas dinner goddess.

Ormaie Paris is about perfumes that will blow your mind sensually and visually (just look at their fabulous flacons). I want Toï Toï Toï, which means a German expression ballet dancers say to wish good luck before going on to perform. The fragrance evokes the polished wooden boards of the stage and the dancer’s waxed ballet shoes. More here.

Phaidon re-released Grace: Thirty Years of Fashion at Vogue. And, yes, it’s signed by Grace Coddington. Click, click. Adding it to my cart.

This Loewe bunny bag is so cuuuute. Maybe it’s not a life necessity, but then… why not? Available right here.

Boston’s Covet & Lou has some statement pieces that will perfectly fit under the Christmas tree. How about this A Détacher skirt and No.6 fur loafers?

The XXL faux fur bag from Pajonk (a Polish brand worth having on your radar) will be there for you in 2019, I guarantee you. More up on the designer’s site.

Re-See Paris has the best, hand-picked vintage out there. Chosing two things is hard, while chosing one is impossible. Treat yourself with a vintage Vogue and their delicious Alaïa selection.

Lemaire‘s molded leather bag in yellow equals a dream bag.

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NET-A-PORTER Limited

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What a boy really want is this Haider Ackermann reversible velvet bomber jacket. No explanations needed.

Alighieri has some of the most beautiful and magical pendants out there. This one from Matches is gold-plated and has a baroque-inspired pearl. A true treasure.

When I saw those new season jug bags from Rosie Assoulin, I instantly felt in love with their authentic artiness. They are still on pre-order, but maybe it’s worth waiting a bit and receive your Christmas gift as good start of 2019? Some are made with a latex-and-pigment combination, inspired with Gaetano Pesce’s iconic furniture. Love.

I’m not sure if at the time I’m writing this, they aren’t all gone. Botticelli Ceramics proves that some of the most incredible things can be found right here, on Instagram. I’m dying to get my hands on one of those very limited edition, one-of-a-kind ceramics coming straight from Marc Armitano Domingo’s studio.  “Inspired by art, Wunderkammer, and music from the 16th, 17th, and 18th centuries”, Marc creates plates and mugs with 3D flowers, bees, boobies and eyes. And not only. Too obsessed with those artworks. You can buy them here.

This Jacquemus straw hat continues to break the internet. Enter the new year boldly, wearing it with an outfit as warm as Simone Porte’s favourite, beach-y colour palette.

Acne Studios is always filled with goodies. Please consider their new limited edition interior décor, just like the new men’s knits. Wouldn’t mind spending an evening covered up with all that fleecy wool!

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Let’s carry on. Maryam Nassir Zadeh has this 100% virgin wool sweater. That’s a gift that will keep on giving for years!

If you read my journal, you might already know my major obsession with everything Mondo Mondo does. The Janus ring (available in sterling silver and brass) is a must-have from this Los Angeles-based brand.

Blame Jeff Goldblum for making those Prada shirts so flame hot. Forever on my wishlist.

Another thing a guy will love: Bode‘s quilted jacket. This workwear jacket is made from a 1940’s album–patterned quilt. The quilt contains bits and pieces of men’s shirting, as well as a number of other checked cotton fabrics. Will look perfect with a pair of corduroy pants, as well coming from this New York-based brand.

Byredo‘s Eleventh Hour is an experience of its own kind, I tell you. You will get completely addicted.

If somebody ever gifts me this Calvin Klein 205W39NYC x Pendleton wool and cotton-blend blanket, I will marry them immediately.

Hope my public Santa Claus letter helps a bit!

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NET-A-PORTER Limited

It’s Real. A Détacher SS19

When you’re a designer like Mona Kowalska, and you lead a brand like A Détacher, you don’t necessarily need a New York fashion week attendance. The success behind this label isn’t propelled by celebrities; a world-wide distribution across multi-brands; or even a perfectly curated Instagram feed. It’s all about one store in New York’s discrete Nolita (that as well sells hand-picked rarities, niche scents and vintage) and a loyal client-base that consists of female professionals that appreciate what Mona does. Kowalska celebrates the 20th anniversary of her brand this year, and her spring-summer 2018 look-book presents her brand’s pure quintessence. Balloon-sleeved dress, harem pants, stacked-heel boots in ecru, pleated skirts in abstract patterns, a loosely fitted blazer. Those are just some of the pieces that catch one’s eye while browsing the collection. A Détacher is as well-known for its knitwear – see that deconstructed, short-sleeved top. There’s also that logo print episode, but it isn’t as obtrusive as we know it at other brands. The collection was shot at the designer’s Brooklyn home. The model poses spontaneously, surrounded by artwork and books. It feels real. And it’s real. Kowalska’s fashion is intimate, but then, it’s made for wearing, not just for editorial styling. Conclusion: I’m sure that the label will continue to prosper for many, many years to come.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Personal. A Détacher AW18

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Even though ‘intimacy’ seems to be distant among New York-based designers, there’s Mona Kowalska of A Détacher. With her cozy store in Nolita, a growing client base of smart women, and a great sensibility for prints and fabrics, Mona’s presence on the schedule is off-the-radar, but worth taking a look at. This season, the Polish-born designer left behind the idea of references and specfic inspirations. Rather, she focused on her personal style, that has developed into something unique throughout the years of working in fashion. Distorted blazers over beige turtlenecks; crotchet knits styled with floral blouses; very lovely, shaggy cardigans worn casually over a matching in colour dress. While styling plays an important role at A Détacher, it’s the clothes that do the work – I think that’s the essence behind the label.

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Few Words. A Détacher SS18

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That was a story of masterful layering at Mona Kowalska‘s spring-summer 2018 show at A Détacher. A mint-green hoodie worn underneath a short-sleeved jacquard knit was refreshing, just like a simple blazer-on-dress trick. Knitted, loosely-fitted dresses in lilac or chestnut rank up high as well as high-waisted denim with an A Détacher tag. Mona Kowalska is the woman of few words in terms of fashion, so let her clothes (favoured by New York women of different walks of life) talk for themselves.

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki.