New York loses one of its most under-the-radar, but beloved, independent brands – A Détacher. After 21 years of existence, Mona Kowalska closes the brand she created and gifted to the New Yorkers. A Détacher was it: comfortable, well-made, slightly quirky, but easy-in-approach fashion that doesn’t know trends or influencers. It was a rather quiet brand that always delivered heartfelt collections during buzzy, sometimes lost in itself, NYFW. The designer of Polish origins also had (well, still has, as the brand will close in the end of the season) her own boutique on Mulberry street, that sold not only A Détacher, but as well hand-picked vintage, arty candles and everything that’s in Kowalska’s taste. Her last collection is quite dark and is mostly based on the brand’s signature styles: a parachute dress, a turtleneck with highlighted shoulders, fluffy cardigans. The loosely fitted t-shirt dress with a slip dress trompe-l’oeil in the front seems to be a nod to Martin Margiela’s early design. It’s a beautiful, farewell line-up dedicated to A Détacher’s loyal clients. But there are no reasons to cry – we will definitely see Mona back soon, and wherever she takes us, we follow.
Collage by Edward Kanarecki.