You might believe it or not – but I am kind of dissapointed with the recent Gucci collection, designed by Alessandro Michele. I know that lately I was getting over excited about the designer’s latest womenswear outings, which have appealled to me so much – but this autumn-winter 2016 collection is just too predictable. Firstly, the vision of Michele at Gucci is so eccentric, signature-filled and bold that his collections will always look… well, nearly the same. It just feels that the house won’t turn into a new direction and it will always keep that slightly eerie, vintage mood. From one side, it might become an opulent Armani-kind of house, where nothing changes. But from the other side, it means that the brand won’t get influenced by one-season trends. And that’s  good, though.

Speaking of recurrence – the best-selling “Gucci bloom” print is still here. The L’Aveugle Par Amour embroideries are back on the denim jackets. The furry,  horse-bit Gucci loafers are again on the runway – and I still feel a burning desire for them. The Italian craftsmanship is the right privilege for the house. Even the designer’s muses and favourite films play a role – Kate Bush, David Bowie (there was a beautiful homage paid to him during the show with an embroidered BOWIE varsity jacket) and Twin Peaks keep the eclectic mood. The pieces that highlighted the collection? Male chokers, for which I will never forgive Alessandro; pilgrim dresses for the women’s part; velvet tracksuits with floral embroideries; LA-neighborhood-boys-and-cowboys combo which surprisingly made think of Hedi Slimane’s Saint Laurent guy. Whether or not this collection feels messy and deja vu, Alessandro Michele can be praised for his stubborn belief in the neo-nostalgic vision. Nevertheless, a fresh breath of air would be just perfect for him.