Maximalism. Mary Katrantzou SS19

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In London, it’s the season of anniversaries. It’s not only Victoria Beckham who celebrates her 10 years of business, but as well Mary Katrantzou, the Greek designer who exactly in 2008 stormed the industry with her kaleidoscopic, bold prints. One would expect to see a remix of her greatest hits, but Katrantzou pushed the envelope and didn’t go the ‘easy’ way. For this delightful collection (which I consider her best in a while), Mary took favourite prints she used throughout her career, and re-made them in the most couture way. Postcard stamps, butterflies, perfume bottles, jewellery, flowers and many other trademarks of her visual language were transformed into meticulous embroideries and embellishments that covered long-sleeved mini-dresses, tulle ball-gowns, romantic capes and  elegant flares. Once you see the details, you will be instantly in awe with all that stunning, mind-blowing beauty. Maximalism has always been Katrantzou’s best friend, but this season it seems to be a grand love affair. In the end of the show, after the “collection of collections” was presented, the curtain in the middle of the venue went up and an army of mannequins appeared. The guests could revisit Mary’s most major moments, from her gorgeous MA collection to that memorable type-writer dress in red from 2012. Well, what else is left to say. Wishing the designer next, and next, and next decades of success in fashion!

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Real. Proenza Schouler SS19

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Similar to Rodarte, Proenza Schouler returned to New York fashion week after a stint in Paris. Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez immediately switched everything, from sensibility to the production of the new season clothing. No more feathers, meticulous embroideries and laborious craftsmanship. The feeling is New York, not Paris. Real, laid back. And that’s something that works for Proenza Schouler best. Even though I loved their last two collections they did in Europe, it was quite perceivable that the ‘prestige’ surrounding the French capital might not entirely be their cup of tea.

Their collection happens to be one of my favourites from what we’ve seen up to date in New York. First, the simplicity: most of the pieces were made in either cotton or denim. This also means that the price point will be much lower than the current collection that’s in stores. Military-style jacket with a high collar looked so good with wide-leg trousers, and a drop-waist dress in bleached denim is exactly what every summer wardrobe needs. The over-sized, tie-dyed shirts with random snapshot of New York had that art gallery feeling I always adored in Proenza Schouler, New Yorker mode. Oh, the bags. The bags! So big and comfortable. Perfect. I bet that from all the brands that show in New York this season, Proenza Schouler might expect the biggest success in retail. And not because of some shallow ‘fashion’, but well-made, contemporary-looking clothes women will wear everyday, for different occasions. That’s actually the core of the brand since it’s first days – to deliver remarkable, sort of edgy styles to intelligent, self-aware females.

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

The Look – Lemaire AW18

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Autumn is in the air, no? The days of full moon. Leaves are gradually becoming yellow. Watching Nouvelle Vague films in the evenings. Forgetting about shorts and t-shirts. This Lemaire autumn-winter 2018 coat and layered shirting make me drool.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.