Tulle as Women’s Best – Friend. Molly Goddard AW16

February 22, 2016February 22, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Molly Goddard‘s girlie, pastel-pink tulle frocks are not only the street-style phenomena, but also a new, essential addition to women’s wardrobe. You might think that a tulle dress might be only destined for an eternal-ballerina soul – but the London-based brand, which produces each of their pieces by hand, proves that this sweet and light textile is also for the everyday princesses. Molly doesn’t rest on laurels, though – for the autumn-winter 2016 presentation, which featured her diverse model casting, she looked forward towards new, risky fields of her feminine fashion – together with her dreamy fairy dresses, we had an orange taffeta skirt, floral corduroy mini-dress and even those lovely, transparent lilac tunics which obscured the soft, satin pants. But what really left everybody in awestruck was the elegant black gown with shoulder exposing sleeves (below) and the impressive, pink ball-dress which was sewn from approximately 40 metres of tulle (above). I must admit that I have never liked or appreciated tulle – but the stuff Molly does is stunning.

Baby Boom. Simone Rocha AW16

February 21, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

I am always praising Simone Rocha for being a young and independent designer, who doesn’t fall into the trend of having pre-collections. And that’s truly rare in today’s fashion industry – even though there are a few exceptions in this case, like Gareth Pugh or Vetements collective. Two collections a year give Rocha the time for the creative process, which is so in need at the moment, and lets the designer convey her vision to the fullest. And, as her gift keeps on giving, it’s a good occasion to congratulate the designer – she has just given birth to her baby, Valentine! And, to a surprise, this event gave Simone a creativity boost this season, looking deeper into the meaning of “baby-boom”. “I started to do this wrapping and swaddling with stoles. There’s something a bit surgical and matronly going on—sick-y nudes, the lilac of the uniforms that nurses used to wear. Medical aprons; knitting as women do when there’s a baby coming; schlumpy, relaxed shapes—and a little bit of trauma!” Yep, this doesn’t sound like your average post-pregnancy reflection.

Indeed, the autumn-winter 2016 collection had a lot to do with nurse uniforms, being psychedelically revamped with a various shades of pink. The fur stoles and fluffy Mary-Jane flats gave the feeling of babyish innocence, but that can’t be said of the darker dresses and coats – Rocha’s “matrons” with strict black bows lurk from the Victorian history of hospitals that up to now haunt Irish tales and stories. The woman behind AW16’s plot is both, sweet and sour – she might be Lolita, Mary Poppins or Jane Eyre one day – and she is blooming just as the designer herself.

I Love Fashion. JW Anderson AW16

February 21, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

The autumn-winter 2016 collection delivered by J.W. Anderson is a playful continuation of the designer’s spring collection and pre-fall look-book – and it proves that Jonathan Anderson wants to have fun with fashion, too. “I love fashion! It should be fashion” is what he declared backstage of his London fashion show, perfectly stating the nature of the new season – there was something about the 60’s, looking at the mini-skirts with curvy, leather cut-outs and multi-colour ruffles. There was a sense of softness in these fluffy “clouds”, while the fur hoodies were like a Anderson-revisited nod to hip-hop music. Yet, the chain mail-like studs had you wondering about the much more harsh, punk side of the designer, which we’ve experienced in his last menswear outing. The collection didn’t have a one, straight line of references or inspirations, however it had a humorous, Pierre Cardin-ish outer space character. To conclude, these voluminous, edgy clothes made it clear – Jonathan is taking us to his playground.

New Girl in The Hood. AV Robertson AW16

February 20, 2016September 19, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Do you remember those exquisite, playful embroideries from Marc Jacobs’ spring summer 2016 collection? They were designed by his design assistant, Amie Robertson, whose speciality is embroidery. The blond designer from the Northern part of England has stormed the first day of London Fashion week, supported by the New York-based designer and Katie Grand, the editor-in-chief of Love Magazine. Although she’s a pretty new girl in London’s fashion week schedule, her debutant fashion show was walked by such supers as Edie Campbell, Molly Bair and Anna Cleveland – moreover, seeing her rare talent in a full line-up showed how skillful she is in sequins and artisanal craft. The autumn-winter 2016 collection is based on multi-coloured, pin-stripe pencil skirts, tops and leg-exposing dresses. Noting, that all of that is ornamented with delicate embellishments, which resemble flowers. Hand-made, sequin flowers, which are time-consuming in their process, but look so modern on these wearable silhouettes. Surely, the A.V. Robertson girl will make an entrance in one of these masterpieces.

Cool Goth. Marc Jacobs AW16

February 19, 2016February 19, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Marc Jacobs, thank you for saving the New York Fashion Week from boredom oppression – all those “safe” and “layered” collections make me yawn, even though there are a few exceptions. The collection Marc Jacobs presented yesterday in the evening was just… jaw-dropping. Although the all-white, minimal venue of the collection felt unexpectedly too simple, comparing to all those extravagant settings Marc envisioned throughout the years, it was a perfect backdrop for the clothes. And the clothes were bomb, in one word.

Autumn-winter 2016 was all about gothic culture in fashion, mixed with an aristocratic, soigne mannered dames and grunge, off-duty slouchiness. Chokers, velve platform shoes (a la the ones Vivienne Westwood pulled off in the last decade) and all those extravagant embroideries on cardigans and dresses… then, the queens of darkness came out (Molly Bair slayed the runway – even Lady Gaga couldn’t keep up with her) in their voluminous, black ball-gowns with astrakhan capes. Laser cut floral PVC skirts and crotchet collars styled with elongated college sweatshirts had this striking contrast of old-school and the vintage tendency. The effect? Over-the-top, as usual at Marc Jacobs, but this season it was even more outstanding.

In fact, it’s a nonsense to list all of the season’s inspirations behind Jacob’s winter outing, because there were too many of them – from Winona Ryder in Beetlejuice to Gene Simmons’ Kiss band costumes, it’s visible that somebody still has balls in the industry to present playful fashion and not so easily selling ready-to-wear pieces. Bravo, Marc. You utterly win my heart – and graciously mess up with the system – of all the NYFW’s labels and designers that have presented their “fashion shows” this week.