Self Management. A Détacher AW16

February 13, 2016February 13, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Mona Kowalska, the Polish-born designer behind New York’s obsession-casuing label, A Détacher, envisions her woman in her signature, hearty way. Sometimes, the idea behind Kowalska’ collections are deeply rooted in the designer’s mind and seem to be hard to decode. However, A Détacher never disappoints to deliver a great outing of simple, yet beautiful clothes which are made with heart. When I saw the first looks of the collection, I was instantly in an autumnal forest with my head – blame the over-sized knits for that, which look so warm and down-to-earth. Moreover, note the inspiring silhouettes Mona presents for autumn-winter 2016 – the white tops are voluminous in the shoulders, while the cardigans are so XXL that they nearly cover the length of the pants, creating an optical illusion of long, long legs. From one side, the collection plays with effortless, everyday essentials – but from the other side, the result is mind-blowing due to the cool tricks Kowalska shares with her fashion-lovers. Such a pity that she sells only in New York…

Not Art, Not Politics, Not Fashion. Yeezy AW16

February 12, 2016February 12, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Can somebody explain me why the very beginning of ‪#‎NYFW‬ feels like a place where the fashion industry should not belong to in even a tiniest bit? Why the season of ‪AW16‬ starts with a “performance” which doesn’t convey any message or at least any styling tips (no, a Hollister-like parka, a pair of thermal leggings and Wallmart boots are more of “my daily outfit for a walk with my dog” than a “street-style moment” look)? Yes, you can say that the ‪‎Yeezy Season 3‬ show is touching the migration problems that currently paralyse Europe and the USA struggles with understanding diversity and all-skin-colour equality. But the message ‪Kanye West‬ tries to bring on doesn’t move my heart, on topics of politics, art nor fashion – and when I think that the whole event was focused on commerce, commerce and once more, COMMERCE of some Nike-shaming Yeezy-something trainers, it just makes me feel absolutely ignorant about it. Moreover, how can a designer who shames women so deliberately (yes, I read Dazed & Confused often and I’m in tune of all Kanye rants on Twitter, sadly) is even allowed to design anything for WOMEN? Oh, sorry, I used the wrong word. “Design” is surely not the thing West attempts to do – in this case, it’s just about ripping off a bit of Alexander Wang there, Vetements there and colouring it all in Haider Ackermann shades. And what saddens me the most is the fact that people are eager to buy this, and love this.

Dear fashion, if you’re there – leave this fashion-visionnaire-wannabe and Kimye clan alone. Make space for new talents. Let the mass know that fashion is not about sweatpants and beige-pencil skirts. ENOUGH is ENOUGH.

Ironic Glamour. Area AW16

February 12, 2016February 12, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Area is one of the most exciting, fresh brands coming from New York. The duo of Beckett Fogg and Piotrek Panszczyk are known for their modern take on vanity with the signature Braille-like pattern, already quite favoured in the city, where everything shines bright. But if talking of a shine, the new collection was all about it – the fluidic silhouettes were dazzling thanks to embellished, fluroscent stones, and the minimal dresses were poshed-up with fur stoles, fur bras and fur jackets. However, the pastel-coloured look-book had a sense of irony, as the season represented neo-glamour with a humorous edge. The young designers behind Area know their codes very well, and they are aware that they need to revisit their creative vision each season to make their fan-base grow – but what really makes this eponymous brand so unqiue is the designer’s not-so-serious attitude towards fashion.

A Lady with A Twist. Creatures of The Wind AW16

February 11, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Shane Gabier and Christopher Peters kick off the New York Fashion Week on Design & Culture by Ed with one of their most mature collections to date. Not only because it feels like the Creatures of The Wind girl has changed into a woman – but also, the identity of the eponymous label seems to be much more recognizable. For the autumn-winter 2016 season, the designer duo staged a feminine, yet quirky outing of V-neck dresses made from lace and textile patches, mink coats and to die for slip-tops with autumnal leave prints. The collection blurs between playful Couregges-like polished leather mini-dresses and much more toned, mature pencil skirts and turtlenecks – meanwhile the geometrical jackets, as the brands’ Instagram feed suggests, are all about Ettore Sottsass graphic, visual vision. Good to see that the boys behind Creatures of The Wind show off their other, much more lady-like side – and present something infinitely New York. Both eclectic, and individual.

Men’s – Dark Nostalgia. Thom Browne AW16

January 26, 2016January 26, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

There was an elusive, Rene Magritte mood during the Thom Browne autumn-winter 2016 presentation for men. Just like in the surreal paintings of this Belgian artist, the New York-based designer staged a nostalgic, mournful collection of meticulously detailed coats and suits. Note the chaotic stitches which jut out of the coat above – and the pants, which look tattered and old. Even the socks have little holes. But there is beauty in this type of rawness, and Browne is absolutely aware of that. The hats which dramatically obscured models’ faces were made in collaboration with a long time friend of the designer, Stephen Jones Millinery.

As for the end of a very, very good fashion month of menswear, the New Yorker’s collection felt like a delightful dessert (even though it wasn’t as colourful as you might suspect a dessert to be). Time for haute couture, and the remaining labels with their pre-fall look-books…