Love for Dislike. Gucci AW17

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If somebody asked me yesterday in the morning, what was the weirdest fashion moment of the last few seasons, I would instantly respond: Vetements autumn-winter 2017. But a few hours later, my reply would dramatically change. It’s Alessandro Michele‘s Gucci, which scored all points in category of ‘real eff-ing craziness’. I honestly don’t know from where to start or whether there’s even sense in writing this review. I mean, there were over 120 looks, divided between women’s and men’s (the new fashion show strategy, which really does make sense). Prepare, this one’s chaotic! There was a couple from Wes Anderson’s cult Royal Tenenbaums film; a stripper in ripped denim mini-skirt, wearing a flashy zirconia body-suit and having those very, very long tips; tacky-meets-royal gowns with faux-roses and heavy dose of ribbons; a cosmic, glass structure in place of a traditional runway, which insulated the models from the guests; Hari Nef (!), Asap Rocky (!!), and Florence Welch (!!!) sitting in the frow. Should I list more? There was even a pair of boots with look-alike hammer and sickle symbol of Communism, which got me thinking – how far will Michele pull the envelope? Oh, wait. I guess he already torn it apart.

The point is: honestly, I disliked the collection at the very first moment. I just can’t say I love it, because I would lie to myself. All that splendour is too much. But there’s other side of the coin. That was a show that made you think, ‘wow – fashion is fun.’ Right?  Mugler’s and Westwood’s collections were also slammed by the critics at the designers’ early stages of their careers, because they simply loved messing up with bad taste. Although Alessandro’s Gucci is under the spell of ‘hype’ (can someone, please, explain me at last what this enigmatic term really means) and it’s adored by everybody, from an Asian mega-client to Tumblr boy, this collection will leave a mark in fashion’s history. Uff.

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Floral Work. Christopher Kane AW17

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Florals aren’t ‘ground-breaking’ for spring, that’s for sure – but for winter, indeed, they are. London-based designers are in the full bloom this season, from Erdem to Pringle of Scotland. Christopher Kane is also a sucker for flora, which is impossible not to spot in his latest collection. Whether in form of traditional damask coming from Gainsborough Silks (rather used for haute-tapestry, than in coats and skirts) or meticulously embellished 3-D flowers sticking out off the dresses, Kane’s girl will bring brightness to the room. But the collection wasn’t only about florals. There was this cosmic element in it, whether we’re talking of space-ship prints, futuristic handbags or fluorescent knit. Christopher Kane’s collections always feel like a collage, but in motion. Some elements appear out of nowhere, like the genius sponge-stripped heels or romantic white lace.

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Knitted Needs. Pringle of Scotland AW17

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Fran Stringer, the creative director of Pringle of Scotland, nails it with every season. The designer has found the perfect balance between the brand’s knit legacy and the wardrobe of a contemporary woman, through incorporating top-notch craftsmanship and timeless silhouettes. Her pre-fall collection was a statement about long, knitted dresses, while for autumn-winter 2017 she continues to experiment with this signature. First looks were the flowing, total-black ensembles, while the last (worn by Adwoa Aboah, above) went crazy floral. If you’re already thinking about buying this ready-to-flatter investment piece – Pringle is the go-to brand.

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Ageless. Simone Rocha AW17

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For her autumn-winter 2017 fashion show, Simone Rocha wanted to clearly cater the fact that her clientelle spans from 20-something girls to 80-year old dames. As she told Sarah Mower of Vogue, “I’ve been reflecting on who I am. I’ve been building this identity, and I want it to be inclusive, for mothers, daughters, and granddaughters.” That’s why she tapped Jan de Villeneuve, Benedetta Barzini, Cecilia Chancellor, Adwoa Aboah and Jaimie Bochert to walk the show – model stars of both, the 60s and 2017. The effect? One of the biggest statements of the season: age really is just a number for fashion. Dress however you want, regardless of your age. The clothes were classic Rocha, tough – fluffy fur inserts and accessories, spacey coats, heavily embellished floral dresses, sheer fabrics. And I’m fine with that, because they look brilliant, as usual.

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Focused. JW Anderson AW17

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Jonathan Anderson‘s  collections at his namesake label are all about random ideas matched together in the most unpredictable ways – once it’s a medieval dress in tie-dye, then an over-sized crotchet knit. This season I haven’t felt that experimental spark, which makes J.W. Anderson so peculiarly elusive. Maybe that was the aim? Even though some of the skirts had ostrich feather inserts, while the jackets were over-small, Anderson’s autumn-winter 2017 wasn’t that impressive as usual. It rather felt like a season off; a fur coat, easy everyday dresses, floral motifs.

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