New York. Proenza Schouler AW17

February 16, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

After announcing a few weeks ago that they will be presenting fashion shows in Paris since the next season, Lazaro Hernandez‘s and Jack McCollough‘s autumn-winter 2017 collection at Proenza Schouler felt like a good-bye. Although the designers say that they will surely come back to New York in the future, this temporary departure might be a fist hit for NYFW: Proenza Schouler is (or rather was) one of the most beloved and talked about brands since its very beginnings.

Changes are coming and the boys are ready for the new chapter. That’s why their latest outing was a classical Proenza Schouler collection, with marvellous coats (the opening look on newcomer Cleo Cwiek is worth drooling over and over again) and layered, body-exposing, pleated dresses. The bracelets were especially intriguing, as their fluid-like form looked sculptural on the models’ hands. PS logo was cut and used as boldly-coloured zippers for the outerwear and clutch bags. Lazaro and Jack tend to say theire creativity is fuelled by the city’s incredible energy – and these clothes will surely become a New Yorker’s (and not only) day-to-day gear.

Curator Chic. Maryam Nassir Zadeh AW17

February 15, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Guggenheim’s basement. Dev Hynes of Blood Orange playing on the keyboard. That must be Maryam Nassir Zadeh‘s runway collection, situated in New York’s art mecca and under the spell of Dev’s magical rhythms. The location and music matter would score another brand such adequate number of Instagram shout-outs, that nobody would actually care about the clothes.

But even though the scenery was truly captivating, Maryam successfully managed to let her clothes steal the spotlight. Although it’s autumn-winter season, Zadeh’s latest outing felt summer-y with bright shades of peach and minimally sultry body-suits. Checked orange skirt took my mind to a Mediterranean coast, while a long-sleeved sheer top was pure sensuality. But there were fur coats and velvet blouses, too. Maryam thrives, consistently creating the wardrobe of a sophisticated, smartly feminine woman. A specific pack of women, spanning from artists to restaurateurs, adore her. I call Nassir Zadeh’s approach ‘modern-day curator chic’ – it’s elegant, but in a daily manner. It’s comfortable, but not slouchy. Women who wear her clothes curate, whether in their creative careers or private lives.

Up to now, it’s my favourite collection of the season. Brilliant.

Tiffany (Not) T. Vaquera AW17

February 15, 2017February 15, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Patric DiCaprio, David Moses, Bryn Taubensee and Claire Sully are the New York-based designers behind Vaquera – an arty, DIY label from the downtown. Brands like Vaquera are the reason why New York Fashion Week is worth it – even though most brands do t-shirts with their logos, some of those hardly commercial labels become food for brain. In case of autumn-winter 2017, Vaquera was about dreams and aspirations of America. Chronic yearning for a Tiffany & Co piece among girls was reflected in a “dress” – which, in fact, was an over-sized version of a Tiffany blue pouch with Vaquera & Co written over it (of course in a matching font!). The flag of USA was recut and reshaped to perfectly fit a gown with a few metres long train. Although some of the show’s elements felt quite unclear, like the restaurant’s chef hat (“Why does everybody want to be a chef?” as the show note stated), Vaquera is a brand which subverts reality. Confusion is welcome.

Joyous. Diane Von Furstenberg AW17

February 14, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

American women praise Diane Von Furstenberg‘s fashion legacy for her iconic ‘wrap-dress’ – even Carrie Bradshaw used to wear Diane’s timeless design in one of Sex and The City episodes. But honestly, the brand itself didn’t spark much interest throughout the last years and DVF reacted just in time, by appointing Jonathan Saunders as the new creative director last year. That was the right choice, and the designer’s second season at the brand is a clear evidence for that. And it’s not only because of affordable price point for a truly flattering dress. Saunders makes Von Furstenberg a brand you want to observe and LOVE again. Surely, it’s because of his experience with textiles, which he gained at his own, now-closed label back in London. For autumn-winter 2017, Saunders offers the brand’s clients maxi- and midi- silhouettes of V-neck dresses in abstract, retro patterns. Sweet-like-candy fur jackets and fancy, geometric skirts will sell-out in a minute. Oh, and the colours – so addicting, so joyous. It’s good to see Jonathan back in action!

Lady Romance. Altuzarra AW17

February 14, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Joseph Altuzarra took a totally different path this season, leaving behind cherry sweetness of last summer. Looking at his autumn-winter 2017 collection, ‘heavy’ is the term that matches best, but not in the negative meaning of this word. In fact, everything was ‘heavy’ about the collection, from the atmosphere to the clothes. Delightful velvets in dark colour palette (except a few yellow ensembles); knee-length, lace-up boots; fur coats and jackets; richness of embroideries and embellishments. The styling of these preciously-looking clothes was made-to-measure for a woman, who loves Altuzarra‘s fashion – she’s both, romantic and sophisticated. As the designer said, his main aim was to build a dialogue between the past and today. However, the past felt more dominant in this conversation. Renaissance motifs were the main inspiration, for a reason.