Hello in 2019! The festive season appeared to be very, very fruitful in Santa gifts… here are the two fragrances I’ve completely lost my mind for. Also, it appears I’m a sucker for tonka bean.
Unknown Pleasures by Kerosene / You’re walking down a cold street in England, listening to Joy Division, sipping on a warm cup of London Fog. This fragrance opens up with the smooth sweetness of honey with Earl Grey tea, with a zing of lemon. It dries down to a cozy vanilla, soft tonka bean and waffle cone base, sure to make any gourmand lover smile. Notes? Earl Grey tea, lemon, bergamot, honey, tonka bean, baramel, vanilla and waffle cone.
Tonka 25 by Le Labo / This one is dark. A good, addictive, warm dark, as if the humid summer underwoods, their seeds and resins, were sprinkled with layers of musks and sweetened with drops of vanilla. The perfumer’s notes say orange flower absolute, the unique cedar atlas, styrax resins, absolute tonka and musks… get this one right in here.
Photo by Edward Kanarecki.
Mondo Mondo is a jewelry and fragrance label based in Los Angeles. The brand provides a visual and sensual world inspired by archaic wonders and baroque ornamentation – there’s nothing simple about it, that’s for sure. Mondo Mondo, a name chosen for its cinematic undertones, utilizes the ancient art of storytelling to guide the designs. Intrinsically archetypal, Natasha Ghosn’s pieces become both personal and universal. Whether it’s a heart pendant, ‘Soleil’ earrings with rhinestone chains or (my favourite) ‘Friend’ ring in sterling, there’s something magical about those made to order goodies. The fragrance line by Ghosn is equally elusive, yet appealing. The descriptions of the six perfumes make you dream. I Like You In Velvet is summed in the following way: “in an iridescent cloud of iris and carrots I found my expression. Silk gloves, lipstick wax, silver like the movies. Ballet, jazz, and modern dance, too.” Then, we’ve got the greenish Cowboy. “Here the spirit of the Cowboy is represented as The Fool in this unisex fragrance. He is free, naive, and fearless. You can find him sleeping peacefully under the stars.” Tobacco, leather and grass combined with honeysuckle and coffee must be some sort of nasal ecstasy. Would love to try each of them, but the brand sadly doesn’t ship alcohol-based products to Europe. Still, whether you’re in USA or not, check out Mondo Mondo’s site for more!
Reading about perfumes is a bad idea, especially when you want to try them out so badly. So, beware. Goest Perfumes is a fragrance house coming from Los Angeles. Jacqueline Steele‘s offerings are unisex fragrances with a so-called ‘intuitive aesthetic’. You might have just thought: what?! Shortly, each scent is uniquely composed to work with, not against, the scent of the human body, with internal structures that mimic the effect of living things, and real scenes. So, it’s not a mistake if you think of Goest’s creations as of ‘living’ perfumes.
When you browse their site, you will find the How to choose a perfume tab. Prepare yourelf for the next dose of surprises. Each of the scents is absolutely different – and not just on such grounds like whether they’re based on floral or smokey notes. Depending on your habits, grooming products and even the weather, your daily smell will have specific characteristics. To suit all those lifestyle variables, Goest created the seven fragrances. For the users of fresh-scented laundry detergents, there’s Lartigue. Realism and Grand Tour “grab” into the human sweat and dress it in additional cleanliness and sensuality. Also, Grand Tour is the perfect choice for frequent fliers. Then we’ve got Dauphine (inspired by the imageries of Sofia Coppola’s film Marie Antoinette), which has a freshly sweet, rosewater-scented scent that is perfectly fits hot climate. But for many, the most sensational is Smoker’s Perfume. Goest made a fragrance specifically for smokers, and it isn’t meant to cover up the smell of smoke, but to enhance and beautify that strong scent on clothing, hair and skin. It completes the smell of cigarette smoke, which makes the only fragrance of its kind. Even though I don’t smoke… I find this exciting.
I thought that the world of niche perfumes has seen it all. Well. Goest is a proof that olfactory sensations have no limits.
“With ready-to-wear, your vision of beauty relates to the times you are living in,” Pierpaolo Piccioli stated after his brilliant, magnificent and remarkable haute couture collection for Valentino. Then, he concluded that “couture involves a deeper and more intimate perspective, to go further into your own vision of beauty.”
‘Beauty’ was definitely the keyword behind that line-up of gorgeousness – by that I mean everything, from Guido Palau’s major hair to the closing orange gown worn by Adut Akech (yes, it’s the same piece Beyoncé snatched to one of her On The Run II concerts, week later after the show took place. That’s quick). No wonder why Valentino Garavani, the man of the brand, was so moved and all in tears by the end of the show. Piccioli pulled of the opulent Italian style in a masterful way, like the founder of the maison did back in the past. Floor-sweeping kimono coats; over-sized shirts with equally XXL collars; skirts and jackets covered in bejewelled prints referring to Greek mythology; ruffled coats in signature Valentino red. The list seems to be endless, just like the number of pink feathers used for that ecstatically fantastic dress Kaia Gerber walked the runway in. But Pierpaolo is known for injecting contemporary elements of the wardrobe to the most exquisite collections of his. Some of the dresses were in fact cut like a t-shirt, while sheer silk blouses with embroideries looked unexpectedly casual with Bermuda shorts. Modernity also came to this collection through colours the designer chose. Of course there were all the rich emeralds and fuchsias. But the dirty shade of pastel pink, softness of pistachio and the depth of burgundy rescued the collection from visually being too over-the-top. The collection, the way it is, somewhere between the old glamour and present sense of style, is perfect.
With John Galliano’s Maison Margiela, I think the verdict is quite clear – we’ve got the ultimate winners of this season’s couture. Now, let me die knowing that I won’t put my hands on all that radzimir and taffeta…
Collage by Edward Kanarecki.