Interview with Francis Kurkdjian

July 15, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

He knows how to talk about perfume like no other, using images that speak to everyone. Born an artist, Francis Kurkdjian became a perfumer. Through an association of ideas because he has a feel for his times, a desire to tell beautiful stories and curiosity about people and raw materials. For the pleasure of giving pleasure. For an attraction to taking risks – the antidote to boredom. Meeting up with Francis Kurkdjian for an interview is not that easy – being a world-famous perfumer makes you think and care about your own maison all the time. But during his arrival to Warsaw last month, I had a great opportunity to talk to Francis about his perfumes, inspirations and of course, fashion!

Francis, what inspires you while creating fragrances?
Diversity, travelling, modern life, lack of rules. The so-called hidden part of creation. Something you do not see.

What ingredients do you use? And why?
If you are writing a book, you need a story and letters. My words are materials which I use. It is a very abstract usage – oud, amber.

Do you believe in power of aphrodisiacs?
No. It is based on people’s imagination of “love being a scent”. For me, it doesn’t exist that way.

What do your perfumes convey within themselves?
Memories and extraordinary emotions which can be created by the connection of sense of smell and a perfume. Also, I am trying to bring on something new within my fragrances – something the nose doesn’t know.

As a perfumer, I think you should have some interest in fashion – do you have your favourite designer(s)?
Yes, definitely! Rick Owens, AMI by Alexandre Mattiussi (who is my friend) and Nicolas Ghesquiere when he created for Balenciaga. In fashion, I value comfort that makes me feel free in my clothes.

The interview was edited. More on franciskurkdjian.com

HC – Bertrand Guyon. Schiaparelli AW15

July 6, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Who is Bertrand Guyon? Formerly of Givenchy and Christian Lacroix, Guyon’s most recent post was held at Valentino. And now he is the creative director behind Schiaparelli, succeeding Marco Zanini. As I wrote a year ago when Zanini had his second collection at this historic fashion house, Elsa Schiaparelli legacy and style is so strong and so intense, that it is nearly impossible to lead the brand in symbiosis with her signatures and the designer’s personal style. For his first show, Bertrand and Schiaparelli studio presented a rich in embroideries collection, full of luxury textiles and embellishments. “Midnight velvet dress”, “gold-embroidered brocade suit” – the titles of each look from the brand’s ambassador instagram, Farida Khelfa , sound major. But by looking at all that mind-blowing beauty and craft, I can’t see any Guyon’s identity. More of fur? Sleeker silhouettes? No one knows. However, I am excited what the next season will be like with this mysterious designer. Hopefully its going to be more clear.

Men’s – Detournement. Gucci SS16

June 24, 2015June 24, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

“Detournement is the art of taking some parts of the past and using them in the present with a contemporary approach and away from their original contest” is what Alessandro Michele of Gucci said before his SS16 show for men. “I love to work with the past to translate the future,” explained Michele, and although his designs are certainly rooted in Gucci’s heritage (those horse-bit loafers, the green and red equestrian stripes, bee motifs and famous GG logos) they update the house’s codes in a way that’s unrecognisable, thanks to his desire of not wanting “to stay a prisoner inside of the brand.” There are many retro references, with suede jackets and wide collars adapted from classic silhouettes of the 70s, but there is, as Michele puts it, no room for nostalgia – his focus is on youth. “They really are the future – when someone asks me what the future is? The future is now, between us, between young people,” he says. Also, the dynamic, new creative director of Gucci has a truly amazing point of view on beauty for men fashion. “My idea of masculinity is beauty,” Michele said after the show. “If you want to be beauty you can be beauty how you want; it doesn’t mean that you are not a man or woman.” That is strongly visible in this collection – hand-made embroideries, royal looking textiles, tudoresque jewellery and that Italian “dolce vita” attitude towards life is felt all over these clothes.

As it is in Michele’s philosophy to have female models in his menswear collection, the mesmerizing robes and silk scarves were jaw-dropping for both genders. And even though, many of these clothes feel like out of this era, they are all looking far into the future. It is a great pleasure to have a peek at all that artisanal beauty and reflect on it in the same, poetic way. Maybe because Michele himself is a great poet?

Abstract Feel. Dior AW15

March 9, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Oh yes! Raf Simons again makes his fashion interesting. For fall, the RTW collection looks cosmic – high-tech sequins look like second, shiny skin of the model; the psychodelic latex boots and printed dresses are super eye-catchy. The green coat is toxic in it’s beauty. Everything lacquered and at the same time reminding something of reptiles and other animals. The furs and interesting fluid-like craft techniques are mind-blowing. Raf Simons described this collection not only primitive in a sense, but as “something more liberated, darker, more sexual.” Something more than Dior’s femme fleur, in other words which he brought monotonously for few seasons.

Louise Bourgeois. Simone Rocha AW15

February 22, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

The layers of Simone Rocha’s dresses overlapped themselves like Louise Bourgeois sculptures. “I just absolutely love her work and the fact that it’s so personal. Also a lot of it is very textile based, but I love all of her materials – marble, wood, glass, and the contrast of it. Even though it was personal to her a lot of people relate to it,” Rocha noted backstage. The tapestry-like textiles were combined with sheer mesh while hair-like fur with florals. “I read recently that when she (Louise) was asked to go and have her photo taken she said she was so nervous she would rather hide behind her work so she just brought this huge phallus with her, which I think is a great idea,” Rocha said. “I’d much rather be behind a rail of clothes right now!”