Fluffy Clouds. Cecilie Bahnsen AW20

The music began, and once the lights came on, Cecilie Bahnsen‘s signature romance was illuminated. Of course there were all the beautiful, fluffy ball skirts and big sleeves, sculpted with delicate silk organza. Still, this season the Copenhagen-based designer slightly stepped away from her saccharine dreaminess. There was a fresh edge to Bahnsen’s new work, thanks to the mix of metallic materials and to more form-fitting, corseted silhouettes that added a sensual and bewitching quality to her designs. Crisp, fitted blazers were styled with cloudlike dresses and sheer A-line skirts, and Bahnsen also expanded into knitwear with ribbon- and ruffle-bedecked sweaters that could be worn as easily with jeans as they could be layered over one of her voluminous dresses. Outerwear was crucial to the collection. Bahnsen collaborated with British luxury heritage brand Mackintosh and showed minimal anoraks alongside cocooning quilted coats with floral embroidery. That’s a great lesson in layering. Bahnsen is one of the most skilled designers in the city and this season she really pushed herself and her talents to the next level.i

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Kid At Heart. Helmstedt AW20

In Copenhagen, in the sea of one-dimensional minimalism, there is a chance to find a true gem. Helmstedt is the best example of a Danish label that doesn’t follow the local aesthetic. Emilie Helmstedt builds her own sets every season, finding inspiration in her dreams and her childhood. Flanked by her bright paper sculptures, the designer is like Alice in a wonderland of her own making. For autumn-winter 2020, the label brought the guests to the city’s French Embassy, where she juxtaposed the ornate tapestries and gilded trimmings with giant papier-mâché teacups and teapots, even a golden spoon. She is a kid at heart, and though this collection stayed true to that aspect of her brand, her fall 2020 clothes represented a bit of a maturation. Take the fitted knit dresses with wavy, Pucci-like patterns and a covetable quilted pink velvet coat in a brushstroke pattern. Helmstedt also introduced crochet vests and sacks, which make sense in the context of her DIY sensibility. Those are clothes to have fun in.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Hot Girl Summer. Saks Potts SS20

Saks Potts‘ faux-fur coats in various shades of neon might have stolen Cardi B’s and Rosalia’s heart. But the designers behind the brand aren’t resting on laurels. For spring-summer 2020, Barbara Potts and Catherine Saks introduced a different view on their ready-to-wear, only showing a single brown pleather version of their best-selling ‘Foxy’ coat. Titled “Latina Gala,” their new collection for summer was essentially a bow down to Selena Quintanilla-Pérez, the Mexican-American singer who was tragically killed by her manager in 1995. Expect drama. A rodeo-ready bedazzled white leather minidress with matching cowboy boots and hat worn by local model and Saks Potts muse Emma Leth was the star of the show. If hot girl summer was a fashion collection, then it’s this one from Saks Potts.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Acid Splash. Ganni SS20

To celebrate a decade of wroking for Ganni, Ditte and Nicolaj Reffstrup presented their spring-summer 2020 collection at the same venue where they debuted – an outdoor playing field. But this wasn’t a “memory lane” kind of show you could have expected. Of course, the designers included Ganni classics, like pretty floral dresses and heavy, faux python boots. But the collection was all about the acid splash colour palette that’s everywhere lately in mainstream, Instagram fashion. Well, that’s not a surprise – Ganni recycles trends over and over again, but sharpens them up in this edgy, Copenhagen-specific way. There were also some evident inspirations taken from Maryam Nassir Zadeh’s brand, which is known for unlikely matchings that somehow become the new normal. If you read me, then you know I’m on fence with Ganni. But this brand should definitely be praised for the way it made Copenhagen fashion week a phenomenon, and for the way it developed throughout the years.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Slouchy, Relaxed. Rodebjer SS20

Slouchy silhouettes touching the earth” – this is how the spring-summer 2020 clothes were described in Rodebjer‘s show-note. I would also add they create a perfect wardrobe for a modern-day jet-set woman, who enjoys her weekends were the sun is out – Marrakech, Lisbon, Malibu. Carin Rodebjer showed her designs on a runway for the first time in several seasons. It was a reminder that her clothes – typically textural, usually fluid, and always balanced between practical and adventurous – look best in motion. The floor-sweeping fringes and draped dresses shades of ochre and curcuma are my highlights. One can’t help noticing some old Céline inspirations, which is actually good. Starving Philophiles, please see Rodebjer next season.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Cool Sweetness. Cecilie Bahnsen SS20

Cecilie Bahnsen‘s cloud-like dresses have stolen our hearts seasons ago, and they are still extremely in demand. But it’s really pleasing to see that the Danish designer takes a step outside of her comfort zone and delivers new vocabulary to her label. Only Cecilie could pull off tailoring in such a soft, light away – just see those blazers and pants, they are the highlights of the spring-summer 2020 collection. Also, how can you not love the hand-tied ostrich-feather minidresses? With the pier near Copenhagen’s floating neighborhood of houseboats as a show venue, and the cloudy sky as the background, those fluffy, flowing textures had to look even better in reality than on the photos.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Fantasy. Helmstedt SS20

Hello Copenhagen! The Danish capital’s fashion week started with an actual fantasy. I wrote about Emilie Helmstedt‘s brand not a while ago, so I was really excited to see what she’s up to for spring-summer 2020. In a surreal venue filled with papier mache XXL toadstools and mossy hills, a parade of forest fairies took a stroll to show off their gorgeous dresses and berry-picking-ready outfits. Whether we’re speaking about the floor-sweeping silk gown in purple or one of those frocks in the most adorable strawberry print, next season, according to Helmstedt, is all about fields, nature and gardening. And maybe a bit of magic, too – there’s something whimsy-witchy about this collection. But not in Ari Aster’s Midsommar way, though!

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

The Joy of Helmstedt

Copenhagen Fashion Week is just around the corner (starting the 6th of August), so here’s a reason to look at one of the most exciting talents coming from the Danish capital. Emilie Helmstedt’s universe is colorful and playful. The concept is rather simple: refining luxurious loungewear and bringing it out of the bedroom. But the effect is more than fantastic. Helmstedt‘s collections are all about silhouettes that are easy to wear, but get you intrigued with their playful prints and colour palette. The garments, always voluminous and relaxed, are a signature in Helmstedt’s world, and with detailing from 30s and 50s loungewear, comfort is key whether you wear it to bed or to a party. The happiness that colors can bring to everyday life works almost like a mantra to the brand’s identity – which is why “charmful” is one of the first words that comes to mind, when you see the textiles, which Emilie creates and produces herself.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.