Slouchy, Relaxed. Rodebjer SS20

Slouchy silhouettes touching the earth” – this is how the spring-summer 2020 clothes were described in Rodebjer‘s show-note. I would also add they create a perfect wardrobe for a modern-day jet-set woman, who enjoys her weekends were the sun is out – Marrakech, Lisbon, Malibu. Carin Rodebjer showed her designs on a runway for the first time in several seasons. It was a reminder that her clothes – typically textural, usually fluid, and always balanced between practical and adventurous – look best in motion. The floor-sweeping fringes and draped dresses shades of ochre and curcuma are my highlights. One can’t help noticing some old Céline inspirations, which is actually good. Starving Philophiles, please see Rodebjer next season.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Cool Sweetness. Cecilie Bahnsen SS20

Cecilie Bahnsen‘s cloud-like dresses have stolen our hearts seasons ago, and they are still extremely in demand. But it’s really pleasing to see that the Danish designer takes a step outside of her comfort zone and delivers new vocabulary to her label. Only Cecilie could pull off tailoring in such a soft, light away – just see those blazers and pants, they are the highlights of the spring-summer 2020 collection. Also, how can you not love the hand-tied ostrich-feather minidresses? With the pier near Copenhagen’s floating neighborhood of houseboats as a show venue, and the cloudy sky as the background, those fluffy, flowing textures had to look even better in reality than on the photos.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Fantasy. Helmstedt SS20

Hello Copenhagen! The Danish capital’s fashion week started with an actual fantasy. I wrote about Emilie Helmstedt‘s brand not a while ago, so I was really excited to see what she’s up to for spring-summer 2020. In a surreal venue filled with papier mache XXL toadstools and mossy hills, a parade of forest fairies took a stroll to show off their gorgeous dresses and berry-picking-ready outfits. Whether we’re speaking about the floor-sweeping silk gown in purple or one of those frocks in the most adorable strawberry print, next season, according to Helmstedt, is all about fields, nature and gardening. And maybe a bit of magic, too – there’s something whimsy-witchy about this collection. But not in Ari Aster’s Midsommar way, though!

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

The Joy of Helmstedt

Copenhagen Fashion Week is just around the corner (starting the 6th of August), so here’s a reason to look at one of the most exciting talents coming from the Danish capital. Emilie Helmstedt’s universe is colorful and playful. The concept is rather simple: refining luxurious loungewear and bringing it out of the bedroom. But the effect is more than fantastic. Helmstedt‘s collections are all about silhouettes that are easy to wear, but get you intrigued with their playful prints and colour palette. The garments, always voluminous and relaxed, are a signature in Helmstedt’s world, and with detailing from 30s and 50s loungewear, comfort is key whether you wear it to bed or to a party. The happiness that colors can bring to everyday life works almost like a mantra to the brand’s identity – which is why “charmful” is one of the first words that comes to mind, when you see the textiles, which Emilie creates and produces herself.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.